Beginning alpine climbers

I know where gonna die!!!! Now it's out there so you don't have to post it. My partner and I are looking to get into alpine climbing this winter and need some help. With that being said we want to know what exactly what we are going to need for beginner routes. When I say what we need, I mean as far as training and gear go. We're in CA so any help would be nice we have a couple friends that already do it but outside opinions some time shead light on the unknown. The classic 100 MP post in 2 hours on a subject like this would be nice for once. Thanks again!

What routes are you looking to do this winter? I'm in Escondido, I may be able to help if it's in SoCal

We both live in San Diego county so that might work. We are currently looking at Mt. San Jacinto.

If you want any serious answers, you are going to have to give some route examples.

Here is the gear I took with me for Triple Couloirs (IV WI3 M3 R) on Dragontail Peak:

HEADLAMP!!+spare batteries

Clothing
OR pants
Base layers - top and bottom
Arcteryx Atom LT jacket
TNF shell jacket
TNF Thermoball
Salewa Pro Guide boots
Wool socks x2
Beanie
Outdoor Research gloves
Rab gloves

Climbing gear
Helmet
Deuter guide lite 32+ pack
Ice tools
Ice tool leashes
Harness with ice clippers
Grivel G14 Crampons - mono front point
Cordalette with 3 lockers
Belay biner + ATCGuide
BD C4 cams .4 .5 .75 1 2
Small-medium nuts
2 10cm screws
2 13cm screws
3 pickets
2 double length slings
6 alpine draws
Ropeman and prussic loop on locker (rescue kit)
Bail kit: 20' cord, rap rings, bail biner
Knife
Emergency blanket

Camping gear
Trekking poles
Half length Sleeping pad
21 degree down Sleeping bag
Food: 2x mountain house
Climbing food: gu, shot blocks
Water bottle: red nalgene 1L
Hydroflask bottle
Jetboil Sol stove
FUEL!!
Titanium spork
TP

It's scary that you want to hit a 10k alpine objective in winter but don't know how to dress yourself for the cold.

You would be served very well by one of those silly group alpine 101 week long outings with your local mountaineering club. They will tell you very specifically what you need to bring, and you can build your knowledge on that.

I think what you "need" should encompass more than gear. How much wilderness medicine do you know? Can you navigate in a whiteout? What's the worst weather you've dealt with before? How proficient are you in self rescue? How well do you understand your own physical limits? How well do you know your partner? How familiar are you with the climb? Have you done it in good weather before? Have you taken a class on avalanche awareness?

This is exactly why I posted. All of the posts above are what I was looking for. I'm not against doing the Alpine 101 courses at all. I grew up in upstate NY and have done most of the peaks out in the Adirondacks but not during any storms and always had someone guiding. As far as survival training I did cold weather survival school in Bridgeport, CA. I wouldn't base my life decisions off of that short period seeing how it was spent with winey Marines and instructors who just want to go home. Added in above we have a couple friends who do alpine. I'm just looking for advise to see if any info helps out more.

Some people have different ideas of alpine climbing ... Are you planning on routes you need protection or just steep snow slopes like snow creek?

When you say "alpine climbing", what does that mean to you?

Booting up a steep hill?

Ice climbing?

Rock climbing?

I'm not super familiar with San Jac proper, but the only route that comes to mind that could be bent to the definition of climbing is snow creek on the north side, which, you probably don't want to do in true winter because of avy danger. Even that thing is mostly steep snow plodding.

We're more than likely going to start with trudging up steep snow, and maybe do a few ice climbs for the first season. We are looking at taking the courses that are the basic essentials as well. I think just jumping head first into a already dangerous lifestyle is enough. Adding mixed climbing in with it just sounds like a dumb risk.

Do you have any crampon and ice axe experience

Justin. S wrote:I know where gonna die!!!! Now it's out there so you don't have to post it.

You want to climb in the vast alpine peaks Southern Ca has to offer????!!!!!
YER GONNA DIE!!!!!!!!!

climber

Sorry Justin, I had to do it : )

I did a small amount of ice climbing back home when I was younger, and when I say younger I mean 15. It's been a while. Are there any good places that have 25-35ft ice cliffs that would be good to practice on in the SoCal mountains?

Justin. S wrote:Are there any good places that have 25-35ft ice cliffs that would be good to practice on in the SoCal mountains?

I've spent very little time in southern California, but this is a joke right?

Bacon sammiches (repost from allen sanderson's post on endurance training for grand teton thread)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=goVrUOCaffo

Try the North face chutes of gorgonio if you're looking to practice snow skills at some altitude, locally. It's not steep enough to really require crampons, unless it ices up, but it's a great place to work on carrying heavy loads and even practicing some rope work. Last time I skied it another group was practicing their self arrests and building snow anchors.

Other than that, get into the sierras. Find some mellow slopes and chutes and just get conformtable. I'd recommend setting a base camp in a basin and trying the surrounding peaks. By just thumbing through Secor's "The High Sierra" you can get a feel for what area you like.

Also, Mt Shasta, at only eight hours away, would be good practice. The "easiest route" (I forget the name but it goes by the heart) gets pretty steep and iced up, without being too extreme. It'd be great campon/axe practice.

If you want a more rock-style alpine, give lone pine peak a go: mountainproject.com/v/winte…

Also, don't underestimate the power of leftover pizza as a first night dinner.

No it's not a joke I've been here for 2 years and spent most of the time deployed. I know the mountains get a good amount of snow but have no clue about the ice. And Ancent thanks for the advice!

Justin. S wrote:No it's not a joke I've been here for 2 years and spent most of the time deployed. I know the mountains get a good amount of snow but have no clue about the ice. And Ancent thanks for the advice!

Thank you for your service.

Thanks Brendan, anytime.

Justin. S wrote:I did a small amount of ice climbing back home when I was younger, and when I say younger I mean 15. It's been a while. Are there any good places that have 25-35ft ice cliffs that would be good to practice on in the SoCal mountains?

Check out the Trough on Tahquitz?

Justin. S wrote:We're more than likely going to start with trudging up steep snow, and maybe do a few ice climbs for the first season. We are looking at taking the courses that are the basic essentials as well. I think just jumping head first into a already dangerous lifestyle is enough. Adding mixed climbing in with it just sounds like a dumb risk.

In my humble opinion, nothing in SoCal beats San Jacinto. With this dump we got, even a moderate hike like Skyline should be a bruiser. Without the trail, the last 2-3 thousand feet is quite steep. As someone else mentioned, Snow Creek. There's also Folly Ridge.....the entire east to north side of that mountain is difficult.

peaksforfreaks.blogspot.com…

There is endless potential up there. Miller is a subsidiary peak of SJ. I've asked questions about routes up there before on here but didn't really get anything.

mountainproject.com/v/mille…

If you want big alpine, that face is several thousand feet high. The tip is +10k. The picture was taken at about 7,400 ft.