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Routes in A Little Piece of South Dakota
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Bar None S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Better Than Most Around These Parts S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Creek Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Doesn't Suck as Much TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ethical Jesture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Little Piece T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Midwestern Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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North Dakota T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Reds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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This Route Sucks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 125 ft (38 m) |
| FA: | Peter Hubbel? |
| Page Views: | 988 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Eggleston on Mar 11, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
This climb is not the worst, but I gave it a bomb rating, because the rock has a lot of lichen on it and the rock quality is not very good in many spots. You climb up a broken crack system. I think there are two crux areas. The first is about 30' up where the rock steepens above the initial slab. Pro can be found in the crack to the left, and higher you lieback up to a ledge. You could belay in this ledge if you wish to do two pitches. The second crux is above a bush in a slot which forms an overhanging roof. There is protection here. You finish up a left-leaning crack which has a tree near its top.
Location
This route is to the right of Ethical Gesture by about 25 feet. At the start is a slab that slants up to the left.
Walk off to the left (east) after you finish the climb.
Walk off to the left (east) after you finish the climb.
Protection
Standard rack to a #3 Camalot. You can use the bolt anchor on Ethical Gesture at the top.
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