Best Walls at Maple Canyon

I’ve got two days at Maple Canyon in September, which are unfortunately weekend days. Can anyone recommend the best walls to hit with respect to quality and crowds? Looking for a mix of 5.10 to mid 11’s

(Apologies if this is a repeat. I tried searching the site and didn’t see anything.)

As with anywhere else, most crags with a good number of 10s and 11s will have crowds.

Most of the left fork (with the exception of the pipeline) is good, but some of the most crowded in the canyon. The Orangutan Wall and Pictograph wall are within a minute walk of each other and have a good concentration of fun routes. Orangutan will be THE most crowded area in the canyon. Pictograph is usually less so.

The matrix in the middle fork will have less crowds, but lower quality routes. They're a bit shorter, a bit sandy-er.

Zen Garden is probably you best bet for minimal crowds (there will still be some other parities there for sure though) and good routes in the range you're looking for.

I've only been to Bridge area and Maple Corridor once, but they seemed low on crowds and good number of routes.

Here's the real beta though. The best climbs at Maple are the steep jug hauls. I think the best example of this is minimum crag. The good climbs start at 11+, but a lot of them have fixed draws. If you want the full maple experience, you gotta spend a day getting spanked on Groundworks, Zoaster Toaster, 49 and Lunchables. They're some of the best routes in the canyon and they're definitely THE style of the area.

Thanks much. I really appreciate it.