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Elevation: 8,898 ft
GPS: 36.264, -115.66967
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 39,975 total · 371/month
Shared By: Thomas Beck on Jun 11, 2015
Admins: Luke EF, Justin Johnsen
Warning Access Issue: Closed due to flood damage DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Part of the Universal Wall may have a Wilderness designation, see details below. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The huge wall of limestone sitting above the Mary Jane Falls parking lot. The wall reaches up to 800' at its highest point and contains a number of adventurous multipitch sport routes on variable quality rock, as well as some single pitch climbs along the base.

Getting There Suggest change

How do you get to the Universal Wall?

Find your way to Mary Jane Falls trailhead parking.

Follow the 157 past the Charleston Fire Station and go straight on Echo Road where the 157 turns left to go up the hill to the old Charleston Hotel.

Follow Echo Road and the signs to the Mary Jane parking lot trail head. Look south and you will see the 1200 ft.grey and golden Universal Wall.

Cross the wood fence and go south across the meadow. There is a chopped off at 4' small pine tree for a good initial marker. Cross in the dry wash. Behind it, still south, is a steep gully. See photo of trail start on the Sesame Street page.
Ascend the gully about 60 meters and break right towards a old large stump. Before the stump the climber's trail begins switch-backing up the hill. There aren't many cairns now but the trail is pretty clear. It generally follows linked game trails and stays out of any drainage’s. About ¾ of a mile up there will be a short limestone cliff on your left.

Follow the trail to the top of a wooded buttress and go right to a very short descent into the hanging "meadow". For Sesame Street....Go through the copse of bent over Aspen trees and climb the slope to the wall. I'm gonna guess it's less than 0.5 mile. Average time up with a load is 45 minutes, an hour at a casual pace. Total distance to the hanging meadow is around 1.5 miles. Sesame Street shades in the afternoon; as of April 29th, 2015 around 1:30 PM. Routes left of the Hummingbird Arete (the fairly prominent and chossy lower angle feature) are shady by 10:30 and stay that way till 4:30 PM in the summer. The "Hydra" corner is in shade around noon. Climb slightly harder or much harder stuff in the shade while you wait for the sun to pass over.

Alternately you can ascend the main drainage gully of the Universal Wall. Simply cross the meadow going slightly west to find the start of the trail. It is also a good trail and shorter than the first one but with more rocks and downed logs to cross over. Takes you into the bottom of the hanging meadow.

A simple caveat: If you go into that area when snow is on the rim of the Universal Wall or the summit of Charleston is freezing overnight, you will be exposing yourself to a higher chance of rockfall from the rim. I wouldn't go after a couple days of heavy rain for the same reason. Believe me a helmet won't help much in that situation.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Universal Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 12
Pepper Ploy
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 14
Snuffleupagus
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
Don't Cry Big Bird
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 15
Grover Explains Near and Far
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Crazy Harry
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
The Count Becomes Difficult
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 13
Aristocats
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Bert's Whitewash
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Breakin' Yolanda
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 16
Tokyo Cat
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Captain's Table
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Himalayan Siren
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 8
Landscapes of the Heart
Sport 6 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Zar Wall
Sport 9 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Dark Horse 8
Sport 8 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pepper Ploy Left Side
 12
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Snuffleupagus Sesame Street
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Sport
Don't Cry Big Bird Sesame Street
 20
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Grover Explains Near and Far Sesame Street
 15
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Crazy Harry Left Side
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Count Becomes Difficult Sesame Street
 20
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Aristocats Left Side
 13
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Bert's Whitewash Sesame Street
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Breakin' Yolanda Left Side
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Tokyo Cat Left Side
 16
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Captain's Table Left Side
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Himalayan Siren Left Side
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Landscapes of the Heart Southeast Face
 8
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Sport 6 pitches
Zar Wall Left Side
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 9 pitches
Dark Horse 8 Left Side
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 8 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Universal Wall »

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