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Figure 8 device: thoughts?

William Kramer · · Kemmerer, WY · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 935

I still keep one in my Ski Patrol pack, for if we have to bail from a chairlift and do chairlift evacuation. Also use them on the Fire Dept still, but we use really thick static ropes. For canyoneering I used them until I got Sterlings new device with all the horns and junk. Used to pack one around as a "just in case" when climbing, but dumped it when I reassessed by essentials, especially on the longer, harder approaches.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711

Used figure 8's in the early to mid 80's for climbing. Not since.

For canyoneering, they're great for contingency as I think they're faster and cleaner than a munter/mule.

Michael Schneiter · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 10,406

I bought a figure 8 back in the 90s when I started climbing, becuase that seemed the thing to do. When I started ice climbing 15 years ago we used to use figure 8s for belaying on thick, icy ropes. Now, as others have mentioned, I only use it for canyoneering. Mostly to save my proper climbing gear.

Steven Groetken · · Durango, CO · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 390

They make fantastic wall decorations, right next to old pitons and crack'n ups. Other than that, I've only used them in the Army, and would usually bring my ATC and use that instead.

jktinst · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55
patto wrote: On my understanding this is not really correct. In my experience fig-8 don't run cooler than tube style devices. On a fig-8 most of the friction is metal on rope. On a tube device a large proportion if no the majority is internal rope friction due to tight radius bends. Thus less heat is transferred to the rope. High rise window washes and cavers use brake bars because of friction adjustability, nothing to do with heat. That said, I haven't seen thorough tests. Some stuff here but nothing useful about fig-8s. Maybe Jim Titt can add some thoughts...
I would think that the reason why Fig 8 and ATC heat up about the same is that with the ATC, you heat up both the ATC itself and the locker that goes with it whereas with the Fig. 8, you heat up only the Fig 8 since the locker that holds it does not touch the rope. All in all, it seems that the amount of metal involved in rope friction in both cases is very similar.

I also understand that on long, dry rappels, cavers douse their adjustable bar devices with water to keep them cool.
ryan albery · · Cochise and Custer · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 290

I'm old school I guess, but a figure 8 is my go to belay and rap device. I've done dozens of walls, and caught thousands of falls with the trusty 8. If you belay through the small end, they lock up immediately when catching a fall. Way less slippage than an ATC. But you gotta be on the ball cause they can slide down the rope if you're not paying attention when there's slack in the system. Once you've caught someone, you actually have to twist the big end as a handle to 'break the seal', and turning the big end under tension actually works great as a speed control when lowering someone, kinda like a gri.

Rapping with an 8 is so smooth; reverse the holes if you're on a single skinny line. The key for not twisting the fuck out of the rope is holding the rope the right way as it feeds through the device. When you're lowering someone, one hand on the big ring to control the speed, the other keeping the rope feeding square through the small hole. As with an ATC, if you let that twist get into the rope by feeding it out of square- twist city.

People who diss on the trusty 8... just don't know how to use them right.

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061
ryan albery wrote:I'm old school I guess, but a figure 8 is my go to belay and rap device. I've done dozens of walls, and caught thousands of falls with the trusty 8. If you belay through the small end, they lock up immediately when catching a fall. Way less slippage than an ATC.
So you're happy that they give a hard catch? The entire reason I belay youth team kids on an ATC instead of a gri-gri, despite a lot of hanging, is that they don't "lock up immediately" and a little rope runs through. Much easier to give a soft catch, and in a trad context, probably less impact on suspect gear.
Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

Well I have a grigri on order so I'll try the 8 with it as my rappel device. I've heard grigris can twist the rope, maybe the 8 will untwist it (highly unlikely).

Tyson Anderson · · SLC, UT · Joined May 2007 · Points: 126

I switched to using a figure in canyoneering after I had a mossy rope jam up an ATC. They have other uses in canyoneering as well such as releasable anchors and you can rig them differently for more/less friction. The downside is that they twist ropes.

I'd never use one for climbing as an ATC is much more useful. I have also witnessed some noobs belaying a leader with a big rescue 8 rigged as a rappel device. Guy fell straight to the ground because there was not enough friction.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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