Mountain Project Logo

Good area to rappel in BCC or LCC

Original Post
chigbee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0

Hey all,

I have a friend that wants to join me on some canyoneering routes this fall and would like to get a little rappelling practice before we go out. Are there any good local walls with anchors back off the edge for him to practice? He has done some indoor climbing and belaying so isn't completely new to the idea. But belaying a climber on 10.2 climbing rope is a bit different than rapping down 8.3 mm static line.

Also any tips on helping someone on their first few times on rappel? I plan on setting up a fixed rappel line, a top belay as well as having someone fireman from below. That way even in the case of complete freak-out (not at all expected) I can lower him down safely.

Thanks,

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
chigbee wrote: I plan on setting up a fixed rappel line, a top belay as well as having someone fireman from below. That way even in the case of complete freak-out (not at all expected) I can lower him down safely. Thanks,
How you going to lower him if he gets stuck on a fixed line?
Brendan Magee · · Parker, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0
Brian in SLC wrote: How you going to lower him if he gets stuck on a fixed line?
Use half of the rope as a fixed line, you can tie with a munter mule. The other half can be tied to the person rappelling as a back up, tied using a munter. So fireman below, person rappelling on half of the fixed rope, the other half of rope tied to person rappelling and up to the anchor on a munter with a person up top to manage that. This also allows the person up top to transfer the load from one strand of the rope to the other if the person rappelling gets a shirt or something stuck in the ATC.
B Jolley · · Utah · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 172

Whatever method you decide to use. Dogwood is a easy place to practice.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
Brendan Magee wrote: Use half of the rope as a fixed line, you can tie with a munter mule. The other half can be tied to the person rappelling as a back up, tied using a munter. So fireman below, person rappelling on half of the fixed rope, the other half of rope tied to person rappelling and up to the anchor on a munter with a person up top to manage that. This also allows the person up top to transfer the load from one strand of the rope to the other if the person rappelling gets a shirt or something stuck in the ATC.
Use a contingency anchor. Response I was looking for.

If folks don't know how to do that, should they be taking people out rappelling?
Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316
Brian in SLC wrote: Use a contingency anchor. Response I was looking for. If folks don't know how to do that, should they be taking people out rappelling?
So that was a quiz?
cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654

Lots of good info here.
Brendan hit the nail on the head. This is the exact set up we use on all our canyoneering trips and is the standard that the AMGA teaches for facilitating rappelling for clients. A quick load transfer from the rappel line to the belay line and back if something gets stuck.

Might be a bit complicated if not shown how by someone who knows the system.
Also negates the need for a firemen's belay as two belays of a rappel are unnecessary.

I think it was a quiz.

oldfattradguuy kk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 170

Rapping on a 8.3 is scary as hell, especially considering many canyon raps overhang with far harder starts than climbing situations.

You're gonna die!

chigbee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0
oldfattradguuy wrote: Rapping on a 8.3 is scary as hell, especially considering many canyon raps overhang with far harder starts than climbing situations. You're gonna die!
LOL. So true. the dead part that is. :)

Just for the record I DO know how to rig a contingency anchor. But with that being said I decided to send him to Momentum to take their $50 rappelling class. I feel comfortable helping out someone with less experience but probably not training someone with no experience.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
Post a Reply to "Good area to rappel in BCC or LCC"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.