Mt Rainier DC Route Next week- Critique my Gear!

NateGfunk wrote:Dont need a picket, youre not going to use it. Or really your crevasse rescue kit. With two people, if one person falls into a crevasse the other person is not going to be able to hold their weight and hammer in a picket to rig a haul. The most you can hope for is for the fallen partner to climb their way out while the topside guy attempts a belay. Climbing roped with only one partner on crevasse terrain is not ideal.

I'd argue that's not necessarily true. Unless the glacier is really dry (which could be true in this case, admittedly), it's wholly reasonable for a two-person rope team to navigate crevassed terrain provided that they employ stopper knots between them. In the event of a crevasse fall, the corked knots will help support the load, allowing the belayer to then create an anchor.

However, this tends to be problematic for the predominating 3:1 hauling paradigm most folks traveling on glaciers seem to prefer. Using stopper knots prevents using a 3:1 system as the same effect that makes the knots useful in holding a fall makes it nearly impossible to haul. Consequently, the belayer must use a drop-loop haul system. It's not terribly more complicated, but it does require a slightly different skill set.

Holding a crevasse fall, building an anchor, and rigging a haul by oneself is a standard component of AMGA guide training and evaluation. Plenty of guides pass this test, meaning it's a skill that is possible to do and that could be learned by recreational climbers willing to put in the practice.

NateGfunk wrote:You have an excess of stuff. The DC is a walk. Dont need the ferrosi and the alpha, theyre the same thing. Pick one. Dont need the atom LT/SV just bring the Helios. Dont need mittens and gloves, and fleece gloves, pick two Dont need goggles Dont need 4 lockers Definitely dont need any revolvers Dont need all those slings and a cordalette Dont need a picket, youre not going to use it. Or really your crevasse rescue kit. With two people, if one person falls into a crevasse the other person is not going to be able to hold their weight and hammer in a picket to rig a haul. The most you can hope for is for the fallen partner to climb their way out while the topside guy attempts a belay. Climbing roped with only one partner on crevasse terrain is not ideal.

This, but I disagree with the statement on the Helios. Bring the LT/SV combo, same weight, but can wear one or the other depending on needs. The synthetic insulation also works better if it happens to get wet.

Time your approach to Muir so you do not bake in sun, go in really early or really late.

Thanks for all the info! Ended up getting turned around at 13k (snow was coming in, and two guided teams below us turned around due to weather... I didnt feel like anything epic). Hung out in Seattle and Portland for a few days then went back at it. Made it to the summit a little before 5am, and was happy I brought the LT and the Helios as the wind was blowing heavily up there. I definitely wish I brought a different pack- I like the Alpha, but find myself avoiding water breaks as its such a pain in the ass to get into the main pouch and dig out water and the shoulder straps started digging on the snow field.

Good job getting to the top and being smart about the bail on the first go. I'm sure many lessons were learned, both strategy and gear-wise.