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OW Training

Original Post
Daniel Rickert · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 471

i am still breaking into the harder trad grades, but saw an awesome OW climb last time I was out. I am forced to be a weekend warrior so my training currently consists of climbing on plastic, runs, and light weight training.

I just picked up a #6 so now I need to figure out how to climb this beast.

Any thoughts on training would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Leftwich · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 10

So you're going to need a set of free weights, two nuns, a jar of vaseline, 6 tall boys, a cattle prod, leather pants (very tight), a cow bell, one voyeuristic friend, 4 10' long 2x10's, and a duck.

Pretty sure that explains itself...

Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 256

A super strong core can do wonders for OW battles. Work the pushing muscle groups; tri's, pecs and shoulders. Compression fitness can be helpful as well. You could also crawl around on asphalt and concrete to get the body and mind conditioned to pain and possible suffering.

Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507
Leftwich wrote:So you're going to need a set of free weights, two nuns, a jar of vaseline, 6 tall boys, a cattle prod, leather pants (very tight), a cow bell, one voyeuristic friend, 4 10' long 2x10's, and a duck. Pretty sure that explains itself...
Ahh, off-width training at its finest. I think you're forgetting the abortion doctor and some oversized reading glasses.

The best way to train the skin for off-widthing is to get dragged on a gravel road behind a truck at about five miles an hour.
Leftwich · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 10

Once a week I go to a therapist and confess my deepest darkest thoughts, fears and desires... not for absolution, but so she can then use that information to inflict enough psychological damage to keep me in a fairly decent shape.

Daniel Rickert · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 471

I was pretty sure this was not my best idea. Now I am sure it is not. Luckily it sounds like I have most of the equipment I'll need, minus the voyeuristic friend...

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

Top rope it til you learn the techniques. Other people's opinions may differ (and I'm definitely nothing close to a OW expert) but I think strength won't do you much good if you don't have the body leverage and techniques right.

You could look up the Wideboys (UK climbers that trained for US offwidths, came over here and crushed), to look at how they trained.

Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507
Mathias wrote:Top rope it til you learn the techniques. Other people's opinions may differ (and I'm definitely nothing close to a OW expert) but I think strength won't do you much good if you don't have the body leverage and techniques right. You could look up the Wideboys (UK climbers that trained for US offwidths, came over here and crushed), to look at how they trained.
It should be known that they did make a training dungeon in their basement...
rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

Learn from one of the world's best:

pamelashantipack.com/2013/0…

But training will get you absolutely nowhere without technique, so invest in

fixedpin.com/products/the-c…

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

find some buildings, structures or other such ...

and start going up and down ... dont need to go high at all ... in offwidth imagine yr a babii seal stuck on a crevice ... yr inching yr way up slowly



www3.telus.net/public/73942…

;)
Jordan T · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 15

Build something like this, run some laps, run some more laps, then do more laps.

crack machine

Jack C · · Green River, UT · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 325
Tronald Dump · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10

I prefer to just watch Pamela Pack do it.

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

The replies on this thread are gold...

Ried Hurtig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 5
Highlander wrote: You could also crawl around on asphalt and concrete to get the body and mind conditioned to pain and possible suffering.
Excellent! This will also help familiarize yourself with the inevitable question: Why am I doing this to myself?
Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55

Give your wife a baseball bat and a wood rasp - then tell her she's fat. When you wake back up all beat to crap and your skin gone - you should be ready for off widths :)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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