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Routes in D - Hidden Ledge
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Chalk Bomb Antics S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Doug the Subway Fugitive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ones Who Walk Away, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rancid Meat S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Kristen Fiore, Marissa Gorman, Russell Frisch |
| Page Views: | 1,647 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Kristen Fiore on Jun 11, 2015 |
| Admins: | Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kristen Fiore |
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Description
A bit of a hidden gem that sat right above popular climbs for decades. A short crux section and a fantastic upper half of easy exposed climbing. Reliably dry, even if Fresh Meat and Paradox are wet.
Work up and right with delicate foot work to a high first bolt with a great clipping hold. Bite down on crimps through the overhang to make a long move to a good sidepull. A few more moves leads to a good stance below the crux. Pull through the crux with a great deadpoint and pull up with power to reach better holds above. Trend left to the arete and enjoy the sweet exposure and cool holds on 5.8 terrain. Ends at a nice ledge with chains and blueberries if the season is right!
Work up and right with delicate foot work to a high first bolt with a great clipping hold. Bite down on crimps through the overhang to make a long move to a good sidepull. A few more moves leads to a good stance below the crux. Pull through the crux with a great deadpoint and pull up with power to reach better holds above. Trend left to the arete and enjoy the sweet exposure and cool holds on 5.8 terrain. Ends at a nice ledge with chains and blueberries if the season is right!
Location
While not actually on the hidden ledge proper, it's the best place for it using the MP sections.
Locate this climb by traversing right from Hidden Ledge through the brush or by climbing Fresh Meat/Paradox and traversing left.
Belay from bolts 15 feet left from the top of Fresh Meat.
Starts 10 feet left of the anchors on big quartz jugs. Clip the anchor as your first piece or place an optional #1 low if it feels better.
Locate this climb by traversing right from Hidden Ledge through the brush or by climbing Fresh Meat/Paradox and traversing left.
Belay from bolts 15 feet left from the top of Fresh Meat.
Starts 10 feet left of the anchors on big quartz jugs. Clip the anchor as your first piece or place an optional #1 low if it feels better.
Protection
8 glue-in bolts plus chains at the top. The last 20 feet are a bit runout as the climbing is much easier. A medium/large cam is helpful for keeping the rope path in check before the first bolt though unnecessary for protection.
NOTE: There are three glue-in bolts at the anchor. The leftmost (without chains) bent during installation and could not be fully hammered in. I used it to rap/toprope on the first day so I believe it to be plenty strong enough but since it's not 100% legit I went back and added a proper second bolt for beefy 13mm anchors. I didn't see a reason to rip it out but if anyone really wants it gone I can remove it.
NOTE: There are three glue-in bolts at the anchor. The leftmost (without chains) bent during installation and could not be fully hammered in. I used it to rap/toprope on the first day so I believe it to be plenty strong enough but since it's not 100% legit I went back and added a proper second bolt for beefy 13mm anchors. I didn't see a reason to rip it out but if anyone really wants it gone I can remove it.
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