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Rope abrasion question

Original Post
Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

So a few months ago I bought a set of doubles. I haven't used them more than a dozen times, but today, during a free hanging rap, one of them got some fairly serious abrasion to the sheath. Both of us ended up swinging a little once we got past the overhang and I think the blue line caught the brunt of it.

Rope sheath damage

It's 25' from one end, which is just over 7.6m. My immediate thought is that it's not safe (I can see one white speck of the core through the mess). My gut reaction is to cut this rope and write on one end that it's only a 50m now. But leaving the other at full length and replacing this one when funds are available.

Other options are to use it as is, or to cut them both down and just consider them 50m doubles (even though they'd be a couple meters longer than that).

Am I over reacting? If I'm not, is it worth replacing it, or can I safely run with 50m doubles in most places?

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

A couple more pics:

Rope abrasion (2)

Rope abrasion (3)

Cole T · · Cincinnati, OH · Joined May 2012 · Points: 496

I agree with John. Cut them both and call them 50s. Should still be fine for most uses

Mike Collins · · Northampton, MA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

I tend to be over cautious but if it's my rope, I am cutting that for sure.

applewood · · Tonasket, WA · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 16,382

When in doubt cut (and anytime the core is showing it should be beyond doubt). You may be able to use the short 1/2 rope on alpine routes. I'd be reluctant to cut the undamaged one, and instead get a new replacement....

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

I would try to avoid using the side with the core exposed and replace it as soon as possible. I would personally not cut it and tape up the core cut area so I could use it for a full rappel if I need to double rope rappel. Probably use it for shorter routes just make sure you know what side has the damage and don't lead on it.

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306
J Marsella wrote:You should make whatever asshole abraded your ropes carry the heavy stuff up on all the long hikes.
One of them already does.
Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

Thanks for the opinions everyone. I ended up putting it.I didn't cut the other to match though. Still thinking that part over.

Nicholas Patterson · · Sheridan, WY · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 55

a fuzzy sheath alone, isn't a large concern. a compromised core is cause for concern.

if when you bend an abraded section it feels consistent with a non abraded portion of the same line, you're likely fine.

i wouldn't cut both. double ropes are tested individually. use it as a light single line for easy routes.
(i climb the flatirons with one eight-5 double line)

Lynn Evenson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 60

Good move, Mathias. My guideline for anything having to do with ropes is, "If it makes me nervous, it goes."

Do use it on easier climbs (Flatirons and such); 50m will get you up a helluva lot of climbs. Your next double rope could be a 50 or a 60!

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306
nicholas patterson wrote:a fuzzy sheath alone, isn't a large concern. a compromised core is cause for concern. if when you bend an abraded section it feels consistent with a non abraded portion of the same line, you're likely fine. i wouldn't cut both. double ropes are tested individually. use it as a light single line for easy routes. (i climb the flatirons with one eight-5 double line)
It actually didn't feel consistent. It was far more flexible through the abraided section and though it's hard to tell from the pics, most of the sheath had been worn down. It's unfortunate with it being so new, but I just didn't trust it. And I know I could just not use that end for leading, but then if swinging leads, we'd have to untie and retie and reflake. I just don't feel it's worth the potential accident. But it could be used as a single on easy stuff I suppose.
eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525
Mathias wrote:Thanks for the opinions everyone. I ended up putting it.I didn't cut the other to match though. Still thinking that part over.
if you end up cutting the other rope so the lengths are equal, i'd be interested in buying the short length that you cut off (assuming it is still in good condition).
J. Albers · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,926
Jaren Watson wrote:If the rope in question was a single, I'd be tempted to cut it. As part of a double system, I don't think the damage is sufficient to warrant worrying. The pictures don't indicate any core damage, and as you said, only a speck of core is visible.
I don't think this is super well-reasoned thinking. Yes, the core looks fine, but the sheath is there specifically to protect the core in the event of abuse. That is, assume Mathias were to repeat the exact same circumstance that led to the current sheath damage in the pictures (obviously a real possibility). Now, the difference with the future damage is that there is no longer a full strength sheath to absorb the abuse and hence the core will be taking the brunt of the damage. Now, this is a potentially very dangerous situation because the core is designed to absorb a fall and not to absorb abrasion damage. Now, if Mathias is fine climbing and rapping on a rope where he has to be constantly thinking "oh, I better not grind that section of rope over an edge while climbing or rapping", then fine. Me personally? No way. I want my rope system to be fully functional.

In other words, I would definitely be cutting the rope.
Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860

I'd climb on that and not give it a 2nd thought. Especially on doubles! I would wait to see significant core before taking that extra step. That's me, where you might worry over such a thing. Leading, you should be focused on climbing and placing gear, not that furry section of rope. A personal choice IMHO, as I see no definitive 'right' answer. Being picky about your gear is a good thing.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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