Finger injury beta
|
So I imagine this isn't a climbing injury directly, but still involved. |
|
Luke R 84 wrote: If the pain is felt in this location, is that where the injury is? (Stuff I've read on pulley injuries don't exactly point out where the pain would be felt- I could see it hurting elsewhere possibly.When it hurts in a different location than the injury it's called Referred Pain. The injury may be somewhere else, but most likely it's injured where it hurts. Luke R 84 wrote:Any good rehab tricks? I assume gently working extensors & flexors, plus ice and NSAIDs.Gentle work is good, "it won't heal without stressing it". Don't make it HURT, especially if you're on NSAIDs. Go easy on the NSAIDs. I think the current recommendation is only a week or less. Personally, I'd avoid them entirely for this type of injury because it's not clear why it's hurting. Gently stretch the injured tendon every few hours. If you feel you may have scarring in there try "scraping". You can start at the link below, I didn't find a better link. No need to buy anything more sophisticated than a "pot scraper" for 99 cents. Round off the edges with sandpaper. core3massage.com/kinesio-ta… |
|
I would avoid ice and NSAIDS all together, inflammation is an important part of the healing process. Movement is good as long as it does not hurt, extensors are great. |
|
I've had the same exact thing on my middle finger for the past two months. I can't fully close it or fully extend it, which is useful for certain applications. I've been climbing about 3 times a week still, and it hasn't gotten any worse, but it is super annoying. I avoid pockets and crimps, but if I do have to hit a crimp, I'll keep my hand in an open handed position. Not as effective, but not painful. At night I get a cup of ice water and a cup of very hot water and transition my finger between the two. I get a significant amount of flexibility after this. Also, So ill makes a finger massager that works pretty good. |
|
Bumping because I have a similar thing. I have mild pain on the top of the middle phalanx of my ring finger. Its progressed the last week and especially after lots of crimping. I can feel it when I flick the finger or apply resistance against it opening. Are there any exercises I can do to alleviate it or is basically a let it rest a while kind of thing? |
|
If it's bad enough to ask medical advice on an internet forum - it might be time to see an actual medical doctor. I have a climber partner who is an MD - one of his sayings is "your Google search does not equal my medical degree". Might be some truth in that. See a doctor or a Physical Therapist. |