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Any good 5.3-5.4 routes out there for a 3year old?

Original Post
chigbee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0

I've been taking my 3 year old to Momentum a couple times a week for the past month or so and am looking to get him on some real rock soon. Any advice on some really easy TR routes in LCC or BCC, with fairly easy access?
Thanks

brysonh · · SLC, UT · Joined May 2012 · Points: 0

It isn't BCC or LCC but really close to LCC. Red Rocks in Draper area is a good place for beginners to learn. There are benches as the base and you can walk around the side to the top for top roping. The routes aren't quite as easy as you mentioned, but are probably easier then they are rated.

mountainproject.com/v/red-r… Red Rock-UT

Leify Guy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 367

You can find routes at that grade in maple.

Angle 1

Angle 2 shows the truth

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

The far right side of beachball crag in BCC is good for that, and gets little traffic. Just be careful of the creek.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

3 year old ? These look good for a banged up 55 yr old !!!

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71

If you have some development gear you could always go develop a newbie friendly area. Find a small crag and put in super easy and overprotected 5.1 - 5.7 routes. This was done in my local area.

a d · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 5
Leif E wrote:You can find routes at that grade in maple.
Might want to consider getting your kid a helmet, especially since that is conglomerate rock. Wouldn't take much for rockfall to kill a kid that young.

Mind my own business, I know.
M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090
agd wrote: Might want to consider getting your kid a helmet, especially since that is conglomerate rock. Wouldn't take much for rockfall to kill a kid that young. Mind my own business, I know.
I am usually the last one to push helmets, but I was thinking the same thing. A little kid on giant pudding stone is one situation definitely calling for one imo.
Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725
gription wrote:If you have some development gear you could always go develop a newbie friendly area. Find a small crag and put in super easy and overprotected 5.1 - 5.7 routes. This was done in my local area.
That sounds like a good place to go stock up on bolt hangers, and a crag like that anywhere near SLC would likely get chopped ala Geezer Wall. No reason a 3 year old needs to do anything but toproping anyway.
Leify Guy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 367
agd wrote: Might want to consider getting your kid a helmet, especially since that is conglomerate rock. Wouldn't take much for rockfall to kill a kid that young. Mind my own business, I know.
She has a helmet and wears it the majority of the time at the crag, when these photos were taken my wife and I had agreed after both climbing the route, that it would be ok for her to climb without it. There was nobody on the wall above her, and we had both climbed it to make sure there weren't any loose cobbles...
chigbee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0

Thanks for all of the suggestions. Nice to know there are a few places out there.

And yeah, a helmet will be part of the deal.

Thanks,

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
Andrew Gram wrote: ...a crag like that anywhere near SLC would likely get chopped ala Geezer Wall...
Thats why you put it some place nobody cares about.
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
gription wrote: Thats why you put it some place nobody cares about.
That's pretty hard to find, especially near SLC.

Stick to TR's until they can lead up a "normal" sport climb safely. Or, use extended draws/slings on the bolts to keep the clips within reach if they must lead.

Red Rocks in Draper way too hot now. Find some shade in BCC. McKinley slab is a nice, short wall that's close to the road. Usually uncrowded.
Zac Robinson · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 415

I am looking for something similar as well. Must be out of the watershed. For obvious(?) reasons.

Anything long and easy and neat in the Uintas?

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
Brian in SLC wrote: That's pretty hard to find, especially near SLC. .
To bad. The Eastside is full of little crumbly crags for practice development.
bus driver · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 1,516

Some of the boulders right above the lcc park and ride have some easy scrambling suitable for a small kid but they have no anchors. There used to be anchors atop a slab on the way up to the green a with relatively easy terrain but it might be a trek to get there and it might be a little steep for a 3yo. Zoso mentioned doing the 5.4 trad route at reservoir ridge with his daughter but I don't know how big she is. Perhaps a short top rope on the descent from storm mountain island somewhere would be good. Some of the terrain around the millstone parking area might be suitable.

I have a daughter of similar age and am interested in similar climbing terrain for her and getting together with other climber families. (I am more avid than my wife) Hit me up if anyone be interested in getting the kids together and getting some climbing done . . . play group style. I think a couple hours at storm mountain picnic area might be fun. Kids could hit up the playground when they get bored with climbing.

Travis Haussener · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 60

What about Van cott? The U put anchors on the rock right behind the hospital and it's easy to get to

Jason Shumaker · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2006 · Points: 649
Van Cott

Van Cott is good on the south arete; low angle and lots of holds. Use some larger pieces as the TR anchor. It is short and there are plenty of areas to explore. The approach is short and not difficult. The down side is that it is hot this time of year.

Geezer is good but if you dont mind soloing and having your kid that far away from you on rope.

The dam wall offers lots of options if you can find a time there that isnt a total junk show.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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