Mountain Project Logo

Top 10 5.10s in Southern California

Original Post
Tristan Burnham · · La Crescenta, CA · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 2,176

Check out this blog I wrote for Pat's Backcountry Beverages
It's highlights some fun 5.10s and the best crags in So Cal.

patsbcb.com/socalclimbing

Matt Clay · · PNW · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 1,032

Awesome blog! Wish I had more time to explore each area. I logged on to ask for So. Cal. beta and found your post right away. Visiting San Diego for a few days and wanted to get some climbing in. Any recommendations for something family friendly and a bit easier than these 5.10s?

I'ld love to give most of these routes a go, but haven't climbed in a few weeks and not keen to jump on something closer to my limit in an area I've never climbed at. Just want to get some time on real rock with wife and kids.

Tristan Burnham · · La Crescenta, CA · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 2,176

Thanks! For sure I hear you on that part. Check out Mission Gorge. It's got tons of mellow routes both sport and trad. I've only been there 2 times and don't remember the routes I climbed, but it was a cool spot with a short approach and awesome rock.

mountainproject.com/v/missi…

a d · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 5
MClay wrote:Awesome blog! Wish I had more time to explore each area. I logged on to ask for So. Cal. beta and found your post right away. Visiting San Diego for a few days and wanted to get some climbing in. Any recommendations for something family friendly and a bit easier than these 5.10s? I'ld love to give most of these routes a go, but haven't climbed in a few weeks and not keen to jump on something closer to my limit in an area I've never climbed at. Just want to get some time on real rock with wife and kids.
Definitely hit up Mission Gorge in San Diego. A few great routes I'd suggest:

The Ramp - 5.9 trad. One of the best trad leads in Mission Gorge in my opinion.

Skyline Pinnacle - 5.7 trad

The Tower - 5.7 - some people just use the bolts, but I'd recommend a couple cams (I think green/red C4s if I recall)

As the Crow Flies - 5.7 sport. Has a fun and exposed (for Mission Gorge) hand traverse section

Mission Control - 5.8 sport - some nice exposure near the top

These are all super accessible/kid friendly and on the main trail, and you could do all of these in a day. I'll also note that the routes I have listed have better/stickier rock (with the exception of The Tower) -- the majority of the rock at Mission Gorge is very polished.

MP beta is pretty accurate.

Alex
Brian morin · · Simi Valley, CA · Joined May 2015 · Points: 10

Nice blog! I will have to put on my checklist

I did Sculptures Crack at Stoney Point last weekend. What a route. Here's the vid:

youtu.be/OlGO6uP4970

Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 11,612
Kiel Swanson · · Irvine, California · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 55

^+1

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71

did i miss the sarcasm in this post? No climb on this list deserves top ten status. In fact most of these areas are not great in any way and would only be interesting if you lived near them. For instance if I lived in Sand dog I would squeeze in some pitches after work at Mission Gorge during daylight savings time but I would never drive there (four hours)to scale some insignificant pitch.

#1 Welcome to NJC: most of the best climbs at NJC are 5.11+

#2 South Face Right: Point dume is a curiosity at best.

3# Riverside is only popular because of the Willie closure.

4# Horse Flats is the same as Riverside. Open Willie back up an only those camping to climb Willie will ever visit. Next you'll say Pacifico is the best bouldering in Ca.

5# Robbins Crack: is a glorified boulder problem.

6# The Guillotine: Ventura has some of the worst rock in California. And as the blog states the approach is a tour de hell with zero shade

7# Papa Woolsey: Only popular because it's close to a very popular campground. Hit this on a slow day or be prepared to wait in line for a mediocre route.

8# Sculptures Crack: Stoney point is only good if you like bouldering, live in LA, love climbing with tons of bees, and or like a very crowded scene.

9# Revelation: The one truly good route on this list. Also it is at a fabulous destination not a locals practice area like so many of the other areas on this list.

10# Mr. Big: Malibu Creek is Ok and this route is good for the area but has no place on a top ten list especially as #1

/flame on

Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 11,612

I agree with gription but with less bile and more nuturing/encouragement.

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316
gription wrote:did i miss the sarcasm in this post? No climb on this list deserves top ten status. In fact most of these areas are not great in any way and would only be interesting if you lived near them. For instance if I lived in Sand dog I would squeeze in some pitches after work at Mission Gorge during daylight savings time but I would never drive there (four hours)to scale some insignificant pitch. #1 Welcome to NJC: most of the best climbs at NJC are 5.11+ #2 South Face Right: Point dume is a curiosity at best. 3# Riverside is only popular because of the Willie closure. 4# Horse Flats is the same as Riverside. Open Willie back up an only those camping to climb Willie will ever visit. Next you'll say Pacifico is the best bouldering in Ca. 5# Robbins Crack: is a glorified boulder problem. 6# The Guillotine: Ventura has some of the worst rock in California. And as the blog states the approach is a tour de hell with zero shade 7# Papa Woolsey: Only popular because it's close to a very popular campground. Hit this on a slow day or be prepared to wait in line for a mediocre route. 8# Sculptures Crack: Stoney point is only good if you like bouldering, live in LA, love climbing with tons of bees, and or like a very crowded scene. 9# Revelation: The one truly good route on this list. Also it is at a fabulous destination not a locals practice area like so many of the other areas on this list. 10# Mr. Big: Malibu Creek is Ok and this route is good for the area but has no place on a top ten list especially as #1 /flame on
Are you saying williamson is a destination?
Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
Mike Brady wrote: Are you saying williamson is a destination?
Willie is the best Sport Climbing Crag in Southern California. It is also closed.
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349
Mike Brady wrote: Are you saying williamson is a destination?
One of the BEST places ever......

gription.... you beat me to it...... Willie is/was the best, I bet that its like 72 degrees there right now, while the rest of the city is like 102.... go into the shade, put on a jacket. Go up there in mid February, climb in the sun...

with a CLIMBERS ONLY "trail" the riff raff stayed away.....

I still morn for our loss, and hate the access fund for not even lifting a finger to try to get it reopened.
Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316
Guy Keesee wrote: One of the BEST places ever......
Wow, you must really be hating some frogs then. I never really dug that place, probably just how crowded it could be.
Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
Mike Brady wrote: Wow, you must really be hating some frogs then. I never really dug that place, probably just how crowded it could be.
Well considering that the largest population of Yellow Leg Mountain tree Frogs ever found was hanging out oblivious to the endless crowds of euro-trah climber scumb SoCal has ever seen I would say that the impact of the climbing comunity on the species was over estimated. And yes if I could kill all the yellow frogs off once and for all I would.
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349
Mike Brady wrote: Wow, you must really be hating some frogs then. I never really dug that place, probably just how crowded it could be.
No hate on frogs at all.... the frogs live up stream, always have, always will. The closure has not done anything to increase the population or the range of the FROG.

The crowds, they don't bother me at all. I don't know where you climb, but to me if a place is really good, there will be crowds, sort of like a great restaurant.

EDIT: And yes if I could kill all the yellow frogs off once and for all I would. ..... i'm with you on that sentiment gription - spoken like a true eastsider.
Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
Guy Keesee wrote: ... spoken like a true eastsider.
Guilty!
Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316

I used to live down there, then I lived in Bishop, now I'm in Oregon. Smith is the "best"(by some standards) climbing around, my limit for that place is 1 maybe 2 visits a year. It may be like a good restaurant but a lot of good restaurants are over-rated and over-priced.

Kill the frogs, I'm sure the publisher of the guidebook would be stoked as he printed a couple thousand copies not long before the closure. Or you could just go to Devils Punchbowl ;)

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
Mike Brady wrote:I used to live down there, then I lived in Bishop, now I'm in Oregon. Smith is the "best"(by some standards) climbing around, my limit for that place is 1 maybe 2 visits a year. It may be like a good restaurant but a lot of good restaurants are over-rated and over-priced. Kill the frogs, I'm sure the publisher of the guidebook would be stoked as he printed a couple thousand copies not long before the closure. Or you could just go to Devils Punchbowl ;)
Troy has new books lying around? I'd be interested in getting a new one. My copy of "The Guide" is well worn and slightly moldy now. I imagine some sort of limited use policy will get approved someday.
Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71

And the Devils Choss Bowl only has one good, read clean, wall. Additude Wall. Not really worth it either unless you happen to be in the area. In fact I am surprised that DP didnt make this guys top ten...Its better than some of the places he added.

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316

About 5 years ago Kevin(publisher) still had boxes of those things, not sure where they are now but I would assume he still has them.

Not sure about this number, if it doesn't work I can PM you his cell.
(760) 878-8225

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316
gription wrote:And the Devils Choss Bowl only has one good, read clean, wall. Additude Wall. Not really worth it either unless you happen to be in the area. In fact I am surprised that DP didnt make this guys top ten...Its better than some of the places he added.
I brought up the punchbowl purely as a joke. It is a cool place to wander round though
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
Post a Reply to "Top 10 5.10s in Southern California"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.