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Suburban Sprawl
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 2.3 from 10
votes
Routes in Parking Lot Rock - West
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Batwings T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Batwings Direct S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Behold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Delay of Game S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No Parking T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Norma's Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pave Paradise T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Road Rage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Solo Mission T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Solstice S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Suburban Sprawl T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Suprise T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | D. Bingham, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 1,901 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on May 4, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
A good route with some good climbing, but some detractors as well. Climb up a crack with some gear placements to reach cleaner, more solid rock. This section is easy and pretty safe overall. Continue up and slightly left past a horizontal break (large cam possible) and then higher and more right towards a dark patch. A psychological crux (5.9, R) is here. Continue up and left to clip an old bolt and past the 'true crux' (anti-climactic) and on to the top of the rock...
Mostly good climbing, mostly moderate.
Mostly good climbing, mostly moderate.
Location
This route is on the face to the Right of Norma's Book and left of Batwings, just left of the rounded arete. Look hard to see a few bolts up there that may help you find the way. The route starts as for Batwings, cutting left at the horizontal crack, rather than right.
Protection
A standard light rack, but don't plan on placing too much or it. I also got a large cam in (4.5 camalot) in a horizontal as advised by the book, but I'm not sure it was worth taking. There are 2 bolts on the route- one is below the crux, the other above. The higher one seems unneeded with the easier climbing and available gear, and the lower further from the crux than I would have preferred.
The route Solstice (5.9d) joins the route above the Suburban Sprawl crux, and the upper part is no longer "R" rated. The lower half of the route retains it's spicy flavor.
The route Solstice (5.9d) joins the route above the Suburban Sprawl crux, and the upper part is no longer "R" rated. The lower half of the route retains it's spicy flavor.
Photos
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