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USA roadtrip - departing now for 2 months - need help and partners

Original Post
Laure Martin · · CA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

I have about 2 months before I start a new job so I decided to go on a climbing trip.

First question: Where should I go? It has to be in USA, ideally sport climbing.
I need a place "social" enough to find climbing partners, knowing that I'm fairly new at outdoor climbing.

Any recommendation? I know it's not the best season for that type of trip :/

Anyone want to join? Need partners!!!!

Thanks.

Jens Sutmoller · · Cincinnati · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

Email if you come through Red River Gorge!

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

A little more info...5.9 or 5.13?
Where are you based, New Hampshire or New Mexico?
Budget? (Looking to camp free or stay at the Ahwahnee? (!!)
nationalparkreservations.co…

Vegan or carnivore?

Just kidding on the last, looking for a laugh!

Laure Martin · · CA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

More like 5.9 / 5.10 - maybe low 5.11 by the end of the trip :p
Based in CA but don't mind driving long distances
Will probably camp or sleep in my car
And Carnivore!!!!!

Captain Z · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 80

Smith Rock is pretty cool.

Jon Clark · · Planet Earth · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 1,158
Zhengmu W. wrote:Smith Rock is pretty cool.
It's also hot as balls in the summer.
Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

You've set yourself a tough one. 5.10 sport in summer w/no set partners....and a carnivore!
Smith bakes.
Owens Bakes.
Big Chief is good, but you will run out of easy 10's fast.
mountainproject.com/v/big-c…
Most of the sport that i can think of up high is slabs and 5.11+
I've climbed in Smith in the summer, it bakes. But if you get up at 4am, you can get in 6 hours of quality, and there is usually someone around to hit up.
Thought about taking up trad?

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

F Smith! Keep driving north to Squamish. Cal Creek for routes.. Campground for partners

Laure Martin · · CA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

I'm not against trad but no experience at all. Probably doesn't matter if I follow though.

MorganH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 197

This time of year, I'd head to wyoming or colorado. Wild Iris and Tensleep will probably have the most routes in your grade range along with stable populations of people to partner up with.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
MorganH wrote:This time of year, I'd head to wyoming or colorado. Wild Iris and Tensleep will probably have the most routes in your grade range along with stable populations of people to partner up with.
This. At this point (i.e. 2015), Tensleep has surpassed Lander in popularity and will be an easier place to find partners. Great climbing, great camping, great climbing, great summer weather.

Lander (Wild Iris) would be great too, though. Go during the Lander International Climbers' Festival and you will meet lots of people to climb with; this would be a great option if you are seeking a social setting.

Maple is another good choice, with good summer weather and fun moderate routes. May not be quite as easy as Tensleep to find partners, but you could probably figure it out.

Although Rifle is another classic summer destination, I would not reccomend it for you; most of the climbing (and the climbers) is well above your 5.10 zone.

Avoid places like Smith, the Red, the Owens, and whatever other places are recommended by stupid people. All of these places have great climbing, but will be above 90 degrees in the summer. Too hot.

If you don't mind crossing the border, Squamish would offer a ton to keep you busy, especially if you are interested in branching out a bit in your climbing. The climbing is great, and it is very easy to find partners. Summer weather is nice. There are plenty of moderate sport climbs, tons of amazing bouldering, and it would be a perfect place to learn to trad climb. There are many very easy trad climbs, and you could easily find someone willing to teach a newbie.

I did a 2-3 month trip a few years ago where I started in SoCal in June (where I was living at the time), went to Maple for a few weeks in June, then Tensleep for a few weeks in early July, the Squamish from mid July to mid August. This was a great schedule, and hit each area in prime conditions. I'd recommend it.
Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,362
Bill Kirby wrote:F Smith!
+100 especially in the summer.
Captain Z · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 80
JCM wrote: Avoid places like Smith, the Red, the Owens, and whatever other places are recommended by stupid people.
"Guideline #1: don't be a jerk"
But, nice try.
Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

Ten Sleep, Independence Pass, RMNP, or any place at high elevation you can get out early. Have fun!!

Bryan · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 457

My sisters and I will be climbing out West in late August (see my thread here - mountainproject.com/v/west-…), if you're in the same area you're welcome to join us and we could hopefully get 2 ropes going that way.

Go Back to Super Topo · · Lex · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 285

Rifle > Ten Sleep

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
mozeman wrote:Rifle > Ten Sleep
5.10?
Gruff · · Littleton · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 20

If you come through Colorado on your trip, check out Devil's Head and The Monastery. Both offer excellent summer time sport climbing (higher elevations) and there are a bunch of routes in the 5.9 to 5.10 range. Being on the Front Range partners should be easy to find. Have a great trip!

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-monastery/105744343

mountainproject.com/v/devil…

Go Back to Super Topo · · Lex · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 285
JCM wrote: 5.10?
Did not see that part. I rescind my previous statement and second Devils head
Hiro Protagonist · · Colorado · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 290

There's some stuff to climb here in the Boulder area. Drop me a message if you head this way...

Laure Martin · · CA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Thanks everyone for your recommendations. I will definitely go to Wyoming and Colorado then.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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