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Top rope soloing a project

Original Post
Canyon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 5

so does anyone top rope solo project routes that you will be falling on alot. I am trying to break into 5.12 range and have a good route in mind that I can easily top rope. My current climbing partner is not going to be able to climb for awhile and I mostly have weekdays off to climb, leading me to soloing for lack of weekday partners. I have no problem TR soloing on climbs below my grade, but I was wondering if anyone does this at their limit. I am not going to lead solo, but I couldn't see any harm in falling alot on solo TR with proper redundancies. Any Thoughs?
Canyon

jacob m s · · Provo, Utah · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 135

I have been doing it for a while now, as I am also trying to break into the 12s. It hasn't been a problem for me, and just make sure my device is feeding good and is close. I do use two ropes and two devices with knots beneath them. I think the added safety is worth it when you are falling so much.

I try to "mock lead" as i TR solo it, I reach out and touch every bolt, if you are trad climbing you could climb with your gear and place them as you go up. Just make sure that as you TR solo you have a way to get up the ropes or lower off, there has been at least 2 climbs I didn't finish, one because it got dark, the other because I wasn't strong enough for a move.

Jake T · · Prescott AZ · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 5

I tr solo stuff I'm not able to lead yet quite often. It helps a lot if your system doesn't include backup knots or having to pull slack through a device. It also helps if your able to easily swap from climbing to descending quickly, preferably without having to break out slings/Prussia/tiblocs etc... Finally, you have to have a lot of faith in your system, and get used to using it in order to feel comfortable just concentrating on the climbing without any nagging worries holding you back.

I've put a lot of thought into my system and several thousand feet of climbing at or above my usual onsight grade. I would be happy to describe the exact setup if your interested, or not at all offended if your not. Either way I'm really glad to have pursued it and would encourage you too as well.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

Use 2 devices per the petzl instructions ...

And know how to self rescue

;)

Jay Eggleston · · Denver · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 21,381

Steph Davis has a good instructional video on her blog.

Brian morin · · Simi Valley, CA · Joined May 2015 · Points: 10

This system feeds beautifully. Keep in mind the need to unweight the system to escape and rappel

Canyon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 5

Thank you all for the replies. I definetely need to make my system more efficient before I start projecting on it. Jake T, I would love to hear your set up. I may not use your exact set up, but seeing everyone elses set up has helped me improve mine. I currently use two ropes as well, but would love to make my set up better (ie feed easier) before I start my project, but that subject has been beaten to death. As I initially posted, I really was curious to see how many feel comfortable/safe projecting with a TR solo set up. Now to stop typing and go climbing.
Canyon

Nathan Self · · Louisiana · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 90

I use a Petzl Microscender and Climbing Technology RollNLock, which is like a Kong Duck except it also has a pulley mode. I use two strands, with each device on its own strand. Finally, I attach both devices to my harness, extending one with a Dogbone so that it trails slightly lower than the other.

I tried the micro-traxion and rope man 2 before settling on the rollnlock..
climbingtechnology.com/en-U…

Jon Clark · · Planet Earth · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 1,158

I use two mini traxions and have fallen plenty on this setup. It works well on vert to 10 degrees overhanging or so. Steeper than that, it may be impossible to get back on the wall. At the very least it is a pain in the ass. As others have said you'll need an escape plan when this happens. You need to weight the line you are climbing on and will need to keep the upper device tracking well so that you don't generate slack in the system. I'd strongly recommend against draping anything around my neck as Brian Morin is demonstrating in his photo. It should be obvious, but you shouldn't have anything in your system that could potentially strangle you. There are plenty of photos and instructions out there.

A user named doak I believe did a drop test using a mini (or something similar) and posted the results on supertopo. You should be able to dig it up.

Brian morin · · Simi Valley, CA · Joined May 2015 · Points: 10

Canyon, I personally only use a single rope. I never work a TR more than 100' so I have both strands of rope to work with. Do a double figure eight at the middle of your rope to the master point so you have two ears taking the weight. A single ear will result in sheath damage against the biner if you are falling often or weighting your system.

I go up one strand of the rope using the Croll as primary and the micro trax as a backup on the same strand. The Petzl Torse harness strap makes my Croll sit nice and high. That way if I lose my footing, there is no mini whipper. It also keeps the primary ascender and backup ascender from colliding.

If you add a little weight to the rope strand your climbing on (or just coil the rope if on a <100 ft face), this system feeds like a breeze. You'll never experience slack or even know it's there until you fall or sit in your harness. S

When I'm ready to rappel, that's when I use my second strand of rope. I will connect my Grigri to it, tie a backup knot behind it, continue to pull out slack until it is taking the full weight off my body. At that point, I can escape from the ascenders since they are unweighted, untie the backup knot and rappel.

Keep in mind, this demands the ability to have some kind of foot to stand up and pull slack through the Grigri so it sits higher than the ascenders and takes your weight. That will not always be the case, so you need to be prepared to escape if you are in a position of no feet or just dangling mid-air. Some will use a prusik, but I just cary a Petzl Basic and sling for this reason. I will hook the Basic to my primary strand of rope, stand in the sling and pull out slack from the Grigri until it's higher than the ascenders, ensure it can take my weight, then while standing on the Basic, remove the primary and secondary ascenders since they are unweighted, then sit into the harness that is now held by the GriGri then rap.

Practice escaping and always ensure you are backed up at all times

Canyon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 5

Good tip with the double eight Brian, I have used a single eight on a bite in the past, but as stated I have only soloed on easy terrain. I have used a micro trax and a ropeman2 which has worked. I will play around with this a bit. I haven't tried using a shunt as one of my devices yet. Anyone have any XP with a shunt in rope soloing? I have used it many times as an ascender, but haven't seen much as it being used for rope soloing.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Canyon, I personally only use a single rope. I never work a TR more than 100' so I have both strands of rope to work with. Do a double figure eight at the middle of your rope to the master point so you have two ears taking the weight. A single ear will result in sheath damage against the biner if you are falling often or weighting your system.

If that's happening, you're doing something very wrong.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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