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West Face Direct
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
FA: | JWodraska, JBaker, CSnyder Sep 2014 |
Page Views: | 1,169 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | jbak x on Sep 11, 2014 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
This route begins by doing the direct start to get to the ledge on the west face. Then it continues up to take in the crux of Journey To Ixtlan, but instead of hand-railing left on the chickenheads, you clip the cable-draw and then stand on the chickenheads and head straight up to the top of the crag.
There are 14 bolts and then Mussys. One of the bolts has a cable-draw, so the route could be done with only 13 QDs. But... you'll want to use LONG draws on this route or you will probably have rope-drag. And it's probably best to DOUBLE-DRAW the cold-shut on the ledge, the bolt after the cold-shut, and the cable-draw. So taking 18 or so long quick-draws is about right.
USE A 70 METER ROPE FOR THIS ROUTE !
There are 14 bolts and then Mussys. One of the bolts has a cable-draw, so the route could be done with only 13 QDs. But... you'll want to use LONG draws on this route or you will probably have rope-drag. And it's probably best to DOUBLE-DRAW the cold-shut on the ledge, the bolt after the cold-shut, and the cable-draw. So taking 18 or so long quick-draws is about right.
USE A 70 METER ROPE FOR THIS ROUTE !
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