Bolted Cracks?
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Hi all, |
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Clear Creek Canyon. |
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Not Colorado, but Ten Sleep Canyon in Wyoming has tons of bolted cracks. |
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Shelf Road has some nice bolted crack climbs. Turkey Perch also has quite a few moderate routes that you could hang a TR from. Lookout Mountain in Golden is a very small crag but has some nice TR crack lines also. Castlewood Canyon also has some TR cracks to choose from. |
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And we're off! It's Cornelius Jefferson out of the gate with a passive aggressive "sport climbing is neither" variant. I for one can't wait to see the follow up to this, as I'm sure I'll learn something useful... |
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around here we have... |
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Bolted cracks are the devil. |
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mountainproject.com/v/cryno…
It's a great climb, albeit short. You might not want to put gear in this limestone, anyways. |
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Well if this is real and not just someone looking to go chop a bolted crack (which I could support), how about the biggest topic in the last year or so...Archangle! That got retro bolted! |
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I like sport climbing, but "bolted cracks" makes me cringe. Bolts should only be used when they're necessary. If you want to climb cracks, learn to slam in a camalot. It's not rocket science. |
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I think all cracks should be bolted for safety's sake. |
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Brittle limestone/dolomite can often not be reliably protected with traditional gear. Sure, you can place cams, but will they hold? |
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^^^ That could be true. I mostly climb sandstone and granite. The limestone that I have climbed didn't have crack systems, thus the bolts. |
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Matt Wilson wrote:I think all cracks should be bolted for safety's sake.Troll |
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It should be pointed out that the bolted crack at Shelf Road that everyone was referring to was first climbed in '86 and then not retrobolted until 2000, so the route clearly had a history and likely saw many ascents before it was bolted. Also, just because the rock is limestone doesn't mean cams would be a problem. That would suggest that alot of trads areas in the British Isles, France, Italy, etc., how somehow not been safe to climbs for all these years. skiclimber wrote:areas with well bolted cracks, for someone that doesn't want to trad climb but wants to spend more time crack climbing?You want to climb cracks, which are trad, but you don't want to bother using the skills needed to climb trad, which means placing gear. Wouldn't it be nice if the world were equally dumbed down to make our lives easier? |
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Fat Dad wrote:Also, just because the rock is limestone doesn't mean cams would be a problem. That would suggest that alot of trads areas in the British Isles, France, Italy, etc., how somehow not been safe to climbs for all these years.I don't care about the tired argument in this thread, but this is a cool and scary video showing why cams can be a problem in limestone youtube.com/watch?v=MW1teH6… |
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What do you want to bet some genius drops a "man up" or "don't be a pussy" or some other tired old line here? |
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Hahahaha! Don't forget to feed the troll when you cross the bridge. |
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Thanks for all the advice everyone. |
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beensandbagged wrote: TrollNo no no, you have me all wrong. Look, the fact of the matter is that cams and nuts slowly scar the rock over time, whereas a bolt is small and discrete and the same bolt hole can be used when replacing it, making bolts the more ethical choice for crack climbing. |