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Questions: Garfield Goes To Washington, White House Wall

Original Post
Dade McBrayer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 15

I am heading to the Mount Rushmore Area here in a few weeks to do some climbing. I would love to climb Garfield Goes To Washington, however my personal rack isn't quite a rack yet. So far I have only passive gear and plan to pick up a cam or two before I head out. I am curious if any of you think that the route could be done with just nuts and slings with a bit of ingenuity?

Also with the walk off out of the question can the rap be done with a single rope repel?

I do realize that my chances of being able climb the route with my current gear is probably riding somewhere around 15%, so don't worry about me going ahead blindly and unprepared. I am just really stoked and you all make the climb sound so good.

Any information would help.

Dade

Wilson On The Drums · · Woodbury, MN · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 940

It's a great climb and a good objective. Personally I WOULD NOT DO THE DIRECT START WITH PASSIVE ONLY GEAR, it takes a couple bigger cams and is sort of awkward to protect as is. You'd easily be looking at 5.8 R.

With that said, there is an alternate start called "slant crack" about 25-30ft to the left of the direct start and goes at cruiser 5.6. After an initial 15-20ft unprotected easy face climb, it starts to take passive pro like a champ and is a super fun route on its own. It has a nice and comfy bolted belay.

Pitch 2 could be somewhat problematic without cams, but it is fairly easy climbing, 5.6, maybe 5.7, and you can sling a horn or two. It will be a little runout though. AFTER PITCH 2 YOU'LL NEED TO BUILD A BELAY OFF A HORIZONTAL CRACK. It takes larger nuts, BD 10-13.

Pitch 3 is runout as is with cams but it does have a few placements and 3 bolts. Off the belay it takes a 7 or 8 nut between some crystals, then a BOMBER #2 BD CAM (if you're only gonna get a cam or 2 for the trip try to get a #2 and #3 BD camelot), and then the 3 bolts (skip them if you wanna stay true to the FA). Pitch 3 ends with a nice bolted belay as well.

Finally the RAPPEL REQUIRES 2 ROPES! The first rap (2 ROPES!) will bring you to pitch 1 anchors, pitch one anchors to the ground can be done on a single 70m. If you're gonna do the walk off bring comfy shoes. It is actually pretty fun to explore once you top out but be careful not to cross into the Mt. Rushmore restricted areas.

HAVE FUN! And be safe! Rushmore is the best. Also, for fun multi pitch needing minimum gear check out: Rogaine with Minoxidil on Mount Baldy (RUSHMORE). Waves in the South Seas (RUSHMORE). Spire 2 and Spire 4 in the Cathedral Spires (CUSTER STATE PARK). Retable Route in the Outlets (do Katy's Route for the 1st pitch) (CSP).

Jeremy Riesberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 5

I'm 2 for 2 on having issues pulling the rope on the raps now. Also had a friend with the same issue. Anyone have this problem too? Took me over a hour of pulling.

ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 2,084

That first rappel was a bit difficult for us to find, accentuated by an incoming storm. It is below your last belay and quite exposed to get into (roped). It is also free-hanging for a considerable distance so don't think you can cheat it somehow with a single rope to an intermediate station. That's my story.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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