The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Got on Dreamweaver Saturday. Barely any ice and lots of snow that made it pretty hard to find pro. Lots of slides nearby starting at 11am. It's probably obvious to say but get on and get off the mountain early.

Did the third pitch of Shinzo's Third Arrow on Black Wall Sunday-- descent ice but melting. Below the 3rd pitch the entire gully is at risk from multiple cornices. Black and White has no ice and has a monster cornice hanging over it. Silhouette also has no ice.

Adam Reke wrote:What are peoples thoughts for avy danger RMNP this weekend? Looks like it's been a while since snow has fallen, not much freezing going on though.

Yeah - I've seen the remnants of huge wet slides on a bunch of steep east facing slopes in RMNP in the past few days.

Just to emphasize some more that I've seen from the 14ers.com FB page. One video was up in Indy pass of a slide actively dumping on over the road. This one below shows the snowmass area which slid at night due to lack of freeze. From the sounds of it, this is consistent across the high peaks. Careful out there. Lots of heavy snow is getting severely lubricated right now.

(Photo credit Michael Colson)

I'm not sure when the snow will chill out. Lots of large wet slides in RMNP, Gore Range, and south clear creek.

that's a good question as we don't see this phase often. What if a freeze doesn't come? Just soup all summer?

What a shame it would be to have TONS of snow for climbing and skiing this late in the season, but not really be able to access the good stuff.

Well, at some point, all that can come down, will - freeze or no freeze. And of course, the snow that remains will consolidate over time. The question is whether enough will be left over for skiing and climbing by the time that happens.

man lets hope we don't lose it too soon...again what a shame.

Has anyone done any skiing or climbing on James Pk in the last few days? Any updates? I wonder how those east facing couloirs are.. Here are a few from Bancroft on 6/1.

Snow freezes when the skies are clear this time of year despite air temperatures due to long-wave radiation loss. We've had mostly clear nights in RMNP the last few weeks so the freezes are happening and the diurnal consolidation is happening.

To whomever kicked the booter up Dreamweaver yesterday, my partner and I owe you a beer!

I'll second Eli's observation: temps were near (maybe even below) freezing last night up in the Long's Peak cirque, and with the clear skies overnight that allowed for plenty of long-wave radiation cooling, the snow pack firmed up nicely. We descended via the Ledges and glissaded down the bottom of the Loft couloir, and the snow was already softening up significantly by mid-morning.

FYI, DW is a mostly a snow climb currently (with a short mixed step and a couple of icy sections). Best to wait a bit if you want a more challenging mixed climb.

anyone seen broadway ledge lately. is it dry? well, snow free at least

raoul wrote:anyone seen broadway ledge lately. is it dry? well, snow free at least

Almost went up this morning to ski, but its been raining everywhere. Bear Lake was a high of 45 this morning at 5am

Might have better bets above 12,000ft but snowpack probably bad with all this rain

nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…

If you want to climb the diamond this year, get ready for wet/icy cracks most of summer

yep, still winter in the cirque. from across the chasm lambslide looked very skiable. as for martha i would describe it as upstream canyoneering. i cleaned a bail anchor along the way which i'd be happy to return to its owner

hourglass couloir on arrowhead had water running down the first few chockstones. (it melted a lot compared to how it looked a week ago!!) the ice in the narrow chimney was great (~p3) and the rock close to the top was fun and relatively dry. the first two pitches were kinda sketch though.

despite the overnight temps above freezing, i thought the snow in the park was quite consolidated and firm even in the afternoon (we were mostly on N facing slopes).... unless there were rocks or trees or something nearby or lurking beneath, or if the snow was really shallow and melting out (which was common).

Did the North Face Couloirs on Sundance Mountain today. Snow pretty soft on top of a solid base. Easy step kicking.
Freeze not aided by a cloudy night and a morning thunderstorm!
The "nice, narrow gully" described by Cooper has a big cornice and it looked like bypassing it on either side would require pretty sketchy choss climbing. We down climbed, then did the central snowfield.

Powell north face snowfields were in good condition today. Cornices blocking exits from middle over to climbers right. Exits available on the left half.

Got a glimpse at Taylor glacier from the top as I walked by. Looked like the typical climber's right route was still corniced. Left branch variant still looked good from the top.

Did dreamweaver and the Notch Couloir yesterday. Here are a few pictures and a bit of a description of conditions: my blog