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Axe for bugaboo

Original Post
Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195

I am heading to bugaboo in late june/early july and am trying to decide between a couple options for an axe for arresting.

Option 1: Carry my BD Raven.
Option 2: Carry one of my BD Vipers with an adze and remove the triggers.

The Raven would be better for arresting (I have never tried to arrest with the Viper but it seems like the angle of the pick could make arresting dangerous and its so short thatll it will be hard to crank upward with my lower hand). But the Viper would be a lot less cumbersome during the rock climbing as it is significantly shorter. I also understand that it is not likely that I will need to arrest a fall but I want to be able to. Any input/advice would be appreciated.

Michael Catlett · · Middleburg, VA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 175

If the Col is in condition, you wont need an ax. There are huge footsteps to walk in and trekking poles will be more useful. And if not using the Col there is no need for an ax in very many other locations. However, if you feel you must have a tool at the ready, go with the lightest tool you can find with a strait shaft.

Good luck and go with the trekking poles as you will find them useful in many places, including the Col....you will be safe and happier!

jason.cre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 10

What about crampons? Are they a must for the col (around August?). Is the Col in condition by august?

Michael Catlett · · Middleburg, VA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 175

Light poons will be helpful. While a well kicked track will be fine in the morning, by afternoon the snow is soft and poons make the decent much easier and safer. You will also often find some morning ice say climbing up onto the col for the standard route of Pigeon and poons will make that an easy get. My choice is light poons and poles.

The col begins to deteriorate in July, but it only becomes unsafe to pass once rocks melt out at the top and it begins to expose you and other to rock fall. Some years it is fine all season, but I would say there is a good chance it will be in bad shape by August. The alternative, going around Snow Patch Spire is not much longer or harder for most routes, but I recall that there are more crevasses, so roping up when going that way is a good idea.

The alternative approaches are typically posted in the hut along with warning that the col has melted out. Don't overthink the col, it is just one of many parts of the Bugaboo climbing experience and there are suitable alternatives that have their own rewards.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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