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Visiting OK, Wichita Wildlife Refuge May 24-26- Partner

Original Post
Chris Hara · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 0

Hey all,

My girlfriend and I are passing through Oklahoma on the way to Colorado for a road trip. Wichita Wildlife Refuge would be a great stopover for some climbing in the middle of the drive.

We'll probably be coming through on May 24, 25, or 26th which is a weekday. Hopefully we get some good weather and we can check out the climbing in OK.

If anyone is free those days, I would be psyched to have someone show us around a bit!!

All kinds of climbing are fair game, ropes or bouldering.

txclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 10

I won't be in the area, but happy to answer any questions you may have. I've been there lots of times and am fairly familiar with the area.

Tell me what your after, and I'll try to put you on it.

Chris Hara · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 0
txclimber wrote:I won't be in the area, but happy to answer any questions you may have. I've been there lots of times and am fairly familiar with the area. Tell me what your after, and I'll try to put you on it.
I'm assuming it's going to be hot, so I was thinking some shadier climbs would be nice; however, since I'm only going to be there for a day or two, I'd happily brave the heat to hit up something more classic.

Climb 5.9 trad, probably not comfortable climbing 5.10 trad somewhere I've never been before. Don't want to risk ruining my road trip with injury. I would be happy having a day of easy pitches where I get to experience a lot of what the area has to offer you know?

Sport up to 5.11/12

Where should I camp? Backcountry is listed on their website at Charon's Garden or a designated camping area?
txclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 10

Based on what you've said, I would go to the area called the Narrows.

It's in a narrow valley so you'll get some shade, plus there is a nice little creek that keeps things pretty cool. Very scenic area, and the approach is much shorter than some of the areas in the refuge.

As you hike into the area, be sure to hit up Aerial Anticipation 5.11 b/c. It's sport, but use a small cam to protect the move to the 1st bolt. After that, bolt clipping-overhanging-juggy goodness. Possibly one of the best routes in the area.

Once you're in the Narrows proper you'll find plenty to you liking. Get a feel for the rock in the Dihedral 5.6 in the far left obvious corner. If you pull the roof, it goes at 5.9, very easy to protect.

Crazy Alice 5.8 is another must do in the area. From these anchors there are stouter climbs you could top-rope.

If you get a 2nd day, I would go to Lower Mt. Scott. HIgh Anxiety 5.7 is an excellent route. Pro everywhere with exposure and sustained moves. Really great climb. Perfect route for a beginning leader because it just eats gear. (Maybe get your girl a lead in?) There are a couple of good 5.8 gear routes there as well.

The other areas (echo dome, lost dome, crab eyes, etc.) are good too, but the approaches will take up much of your limited time. These areas are granite domes scattered about (think poor man's Joshua Tee). Finding these areas can be trickier than you expect because of all of the bison. They make so many winding trails that it's difficult to stay on the proper trail and easy to get lost.

Camping in Charon is kind of hassle. They want you to be at least a mile from the road, and are surprising strict about enforcing this. Nice backcountry camping, but again...limited time. The campground area (don't remember the name) is hit or miss. I've only stayed there once and it was miserable. Close quarters and loud boy scouts made for no sleep. It's often booked up and a little pricey. Super secret info: Drive out the back of the park past Mt. Scott take a left on Hwy 58, drive about a mile past bubba's gas station and look on left. Lake Lawtonka campground. Cheap, easy, quiet car camping 10 minutes from crag.

Lastly, go to Meer's. Seriously. Great burgers and peach cobbler. After a day of hard climbing you deserve it.

txclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 10

Haha, looks like me and above poster were typing at the same time. Feel comforted that we both pretty much echo each other. You're all set!

Chris Hara · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 0

That's awesome! Thanks guys!

We can stay two days if we wanted for sure. Waiting to see how the rock was before we decided.

Sounds like a plan and thank you for the campground beta!

Let me know if either of ya'll visit the Southeast.

Rigggs24 · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 45

I would add if you are looking to get more routes in in the narrows, that Ker plunk is a fun time. Its at the end of the narrows and you traverse over some water and then climb a ramp. Its 5.7 trad. Also, when at the dihedral there is a little hole in the wall you can crawl through and there are a few good climbs up there. I think a couple 5.8 trad climbs.

At lower mount scott, there is also a good 11a/b sport climb called layaway plan. its thin edges and fun. Additionally, there is also a 10c sport climb with 3 roofs called repeat after me. You will want a red #1 camelot for before the first bolt but its a good route as well. The other routes the other guys mentioned are all pretty good. I enjoyed Mr. clean at lower mt scott. Have fun

Almost forgot....definitely go to meers

DMitch · · Dallas, TX · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 60

I'll reiterate the narrows and crazy Alice.

Crab eyes and lost dome are worth the approach.

Chris Hara · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 0

Hey all,

Given the recent heavy rains (like today and yesterday) in OK, does anyone know how the Refuge would be for climbing? Does it dry quickly? Any problems I would run into?

Should I just keep on road tripping to somewhere drier? I'd love to check the place out and would hate to pass it by, but time waits for now one and all.

SamSpade1941 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0
Chris Hara wrote:Hey all, Given the recent heavy rains (like today and yesterday) in OK, does anyone know how the Refuge would be for climbing? Does it dry quickly? Any problems I would run into? Should I just keep on road tripping to somewhere drier? I'd love to check the place out and would hate to pass it by, but time waits for now one and all.
Hi Chris,

I live relatively close to the Wildlife Refuge and go there frequently, with the ground so water logged , the streams will be swollen and the ground is quite soft at them moment, the rocks and slopes out there are going to be slick. I would exercise caution in your climbing and exploration on the trails , etc.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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