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Devil's Tower, Durrance, July

Original Post
John Hayes · · Shorewood · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 15

I'm looking for a cool, confident climber to help me meet a cool but tough goal in July.

I'm going to spend a week attempting to get my kids to top Durrance. We've been training (mostly indoors) for over year, and I think they're ready. But 2 kids and one adult aren't enough. I need another confident adult. If you have kids, more kids would be fun, too!

The week we go in July is flexible.

Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,114

Have you been training with the lights off and headlamps? On wider cracks?

Your best bet in July for the Durrance will be to start late afternoon (after it goes into shade) and finish late. A 90 degree day in the sun would be miserable.

Wally · · Denver · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

John - two big challenges will be crowds and heat. Definitely do this mid-week. With two kids and a larger party with some inexperienced climbers, I would plan for a pre-dawn start. You may be criticized for mucking up a classic route with slow beginners (the route is crazy popular), but hopefully folks will be cool. Make sure to take plenty of water, study your descent options carefully, and don't be afraid to bail if you guys are moving too slowly, the water starts running low, or ???

Good luck. Post up a trip report if you go.

Wally

WyomingSummits · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

Probably wouldn't hurt to rig up a haul system if they start struggling. Durrance may be only rated at 5.7, but the offwidth sections can be pretty strenuous. As others have stated, I'd get a headlamp start and personally, if I were guiding 2 young kids, I'd take the bowling alley approach. It may add an extra pitch to an already moderate climb, but it would give you an easy pitch (5.4) to bail from if you realize they are struggling. If they struggle there, the rest will be a nightmare. Take a swimming pool full of water....July is a real cooker. How old are the kids?

Andy Novak · · Bailey, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 370

Either start really early or late. I recomend early. I climbed it in August and with a 530 am start it was hot but not unbearable. Do it mid-week and maybe watch for a lull in temps.

It's unforgettable.

John Hayes · · Shorewood · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 15

Hey! Thanks for all the valuable feedback... (this being my first post, I wasn't sure what to expect.)

The heat sounds hard. June is out, right? Voluntary moratorium? And August is easily just as hot as July? What about a week in September to avoid some heat and some crowds?

Either way, failure is definitely an option. We'll start slow: one pitch the first day to see if our goal is even feasable. Two pitches if that works. They are pretty young. My 8 year old can sport-lead indoor 5.7s and TR 5.8s with near horizontal overhangs. My 6 year old climbs 5.7s and 5.6s with overhangs. We've practiced 5.8 (questionable rating) on outdoor cracks. I never assist during trainig, but both are light enough to hoist in a gym.

Eric Thomas · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 60

Man as much of a cool dad you are, I wouldn't do that. If your kids are climbing sport 5.7, they're probably only used to face climbing. Add on the fact that Durrance is a tough 5.7 and the long double rope rappels, it just doesn't seem like anyone would have fun.
Personally when I was in that area, I had more fun at Custer state park in South Dakota. Lots more variety and way less commiting.

WyomingSummits · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

I second the Custer/Rushmore suggestion. You're only 1.5-2 hrs away so if the Tower doesn't work out, you can still have a good climbing trip. Rushmore even has 5.4 sport routes. Kids that age have prob done Durrance(very few), but I'd wait until it's cooler. Crack/offwidth is a different animal, and the 2nd pitch requires stemming from 2 cracks that their legs might not reach. It's def not a beginner friendly climbing area, but hey...adventure is what adventure is!

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Getting passed by Jim Herson with a couple kids in tow and the wife simulclimbing all on the same rope will certainly alter your ideas of what kids can do. Do a web search for "Jim Herson" and "NIAD jumarless" or "RNWFHD in winter" or "Steck Salathe with my daughter". Those kids have done more big climbs by age 10 than most of us do in a lifetime.

flynn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 25

Kinda like Loyd's suggestion of September, if that's an option for you.

Another consideration for you is the rappel descents. If your kids are under about 40 lbs. or so, they're gonna have an awful time getting down those long rappels: the ropes are heavy and the kids are not.

I really like your approach to this adventure, though. Doing shorter, easier stuff is a great idea, and may be reward enough for your kids. There are lots of easy first pitches to otherwise desperate climbs.

The Tower is plenty intimidating even for us old farts who know what we're doing and have been there numerous times in the past.

Have fun watching the young uns having fun!

WyomingSummits · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0
csproul wrote:Getting passed by Jim Herson with a couple kids in tow and the wife simulclimbing all on the same rope will certainly alter your ideas of what kids can do. Do a web search for "Jim Herson" and "NIAD jumarless" or "RNWFHD in winter" or "Steck Salathe with my daughter". Those kids have done more big climbs by age 10 than most of us do in a lifetime.
I was multipitch leading at 12....but I'm an exception, not a rule. So are the kids you mention. MOST kids are not going to love being on Durrance, but you'll never know until you do it. However, counseling someone to do just that based on a handful of kids out of millions is not something I'm eager to do. My 7 yr old is a climber and he's not going anywhere near Durrance for a few more years.
WyomingSummits · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0
Loyd Wofford III wrote:Not only is kids on the durance route a bold idea but the July/August timing is not the greatest as said earlier the route is always super busy almost 85% of climbers at the tower go up durance also the guides will be in full swing and the heat will be almost unbearable. Took and inexperienced climber a few years ago in July and it took him an hour to climb the durance crack pitch alone and he drank 1.5 liters of water. Also if you are not a good off-with crack climber the climb will definitely feel way harder than 5.7. Look at the route description also it is 6-7 pitches to the top depending on what finish you take. I live about 20 minutes from the tower and if you do get in the area let me know I will help out anyway I can. September is absolutely less crowded and not nearly as hot.
Look not only at the description here on MP, but also the comments by others at the bottom of the route page. A good number mention it being harder than they expected.
Wilson On The Drums · · Woodbury, MN · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 940

As a new father myself I find this inspirational and like others have said post a TR either way. I'm most certainly help if I still lived in the hills but unfortunately I'm in flat MN.

Like others have said I think it would be really wise to try out the bowling alley approach pitch first. If there is any struggle there it might be best to save the rest of the route for another day.

And to piggyback a few comments, Rushmore and Custer State Park are magical places that will offer many more options. If you took your kids up to the Cathedral Spires I'm sure their gym climbing experience would be better applied. Spire 1, Spire 2, and Spire 4 are absolutely amazing and are super doable for first time multi pitch routes.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
WyomingSummits wrote: I was multipitch leading at 12....but I'm an exception, not a rule. So are the kids you mention. MOST kids are not going to love being on Durrance, but you'll never know until you do it. However, counseling someone to do just that based on a handful of kids out of millions is not something I'm eager to do. My 7 yr old is a climber and he's not going anywhere near Durrance for a few more years.
Yeah, I agree with you for the most part. The Hersons are clearly not "normal". My only point is that sometimes kids are way more capable than we give them credit for. I think it is jumping to conclusions a bit to automatically assume these kids are not capable of Durance. Hopefully the parent has a better idea of their real capabilities than random internet strangers. The warnings are appropriate, but in the end, we, at our computers really on't know anything about these kids. Hell, my dad took me on a cross country bike tour when I was 10 years old. Lots of people then said that was ridiculous. I even heard people accuse him of child abuse. It remains one of the best memories of my life.
csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

BTW..If you do it, I hope your kids don't look like this (picture taken from MP Durrance page)

Unhappy partner after the 3rd pitch

John Hayes · · Shorewood · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 15

Putting all this excellent feedback together, here's my take: definitely September (I'll have to pull them out of school for a week, but it's worth it). Go straight to Durrance and make some fun attempts without great expectations. Upon failure, we'll head to Custer/Rushmore for some more realistic challenges. Good plan?

I might share the dude's initials, but I suspect I'm no Jim Herson. I'm a very motivated dad able to put the right kind of pressure on his kids to do something spectacular at a young age, and their accomplishments have been really good, but I work overtime at my job, and our winter climbing training is limited to 25-ft indoor walls. That says something.

All said, I'm still looking for that cool, confident climbing partner to help me attempt to get my kids to the top. (...as well as more opinions.)

Tommy Layback · · Sheridan, WY · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 85

PM sent

John Hayes · · Shorewood · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 15

Follow up: not only did we try, we succeeded. Not only did we succeed, both kids had an absolutely excellent time. 14 hours round trip, fearless boys, 6 and 8. We had to haul the scrambling younger boy for 60% of the route, while the 8-yr old clean climbed 99%, needing only a couple of assists on p2. 9/9 was perfect weather. Thanks again for the good advice offered here. And I won't hold anything against those who tried to talk me out of it. But you did underestimate. :-)

WyomingSummits · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

Glad it went well. Sept was definitely a good choice! I can't imagine 14 hrs on that thing by myself....let alone with kids. Good for you!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, & Dakotas Partners
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