Petzoldt Direct will always be a very special climb to me- it is on that route that I proposed to my wife!! Check out that rock (on her finger)

All Locations > Wyoming > Grand Teton NP > Grand Teton > Direct Petzoldt Ridge (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Petzoldt Direct will always be a very special climb to me- it is on that route that I proposed to my wife!! Check out that rock (on her finger)

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1978

A climber on the Petzoldt Ridge, with the Teepee Pillar and Bradley Lake in the background, as viewed from the Direct Exum.

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3.9 from 18 votes

thehackattacks

May 19, 2015

“Petzoldt Direct will always be a very special climb to me- it is on that route that I proposed to my wife!! Check out that rock (on her finger)”

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1978

Petzoldt Direct will always be a very special climb to me- it is on that route that I proposed to my wife!! Check out that rock (on her finger)

A climber on the Petzoldt Ridge, with the Teepee Pillar and Bradley Lake in the background, as viewed from the Direct Exum.

Looking at the third class ledges to start Petzoldt. I recommend starting where the picture is taken. You'll find easy 4th to a couple 5th class moves for 70 meters that will take you to a nice ledge where route "starts".

Kelby Fisher on one of the most classic pitches anywhere, which combines two of the craziest features of the route: the "window" and this awesome hand traverse.

Kyra Silitch high on the Petzoldt Ridge

Finishing up the final pitch, before rapping to Upper Exum

Belaying up on the Direct Petzoldt

rest break

Looking across the valley from near the top of the Petzoldt ridge.

Starting up the Petzoldt direct.

The Window Pitch.

Top tier belay

a couple of guys on the Petzoldt Ridge, taken from the Exum Ridge

From the summit (via Petzoldt to Upper Exum)

Cumbre!

Topo I drew. Not great quality, but hopefully helpful

The action! (from August 2012)

Working from the Petzoldt ridge to the summit.

Belaying beauty

following the 5th pitch

This is where the weakness in the rock bands is the easiest. We actually went underneath the snow where it was thickest. On top of the snow is just as sketchy without micros or softer snow. Most ideal is when the couloir has no snow. Watch for rockfall!

Near the top of the Petzolt Ridge. Photo courtesy of Andy Gresh

Hangin out on a very cold morning on the Direct Petzoldt Ridge.

The glorious summit!

behold!

Prime real estate!

Who could resist some Nutella at the top?!

Bad ass belayer

I found Spencer Weiler's topo exactly as he predicted: incredibly helpful, but very hard to read; so I redrew it after I did the route. My friend said the pitch lengths should be taken with a grain of salt.

Two climbers on the Petzoldt

Felt like this route could use an actual beta photo. We did the route in 4 pitches w/ a 70m. Rough estimates of the path we took in red. Green lines pointing to the memorable features. See Kirk's photo for the view of the p1 starting ramp.

Start of pitch 6

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