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New climber looking for all useful tips

Original Post
Seth Carmer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Hey guys. I started climbing back in September of 2013 at my college's gym. I got hooked quickly and started learning as much as I could. Indoor I lead around 12a. Only outdoor climbing I have done is Muir Valley in Red River Gorge. In my four trips so far I have managed to lead a handful of 11a and can consistently top rope up to 11c when I have a ropegun. I'm from Michigan and don't get much outdoor opportunity but have access to a gym every day. I know I'm still pretty New so I was looking for some help from those of you with more experience on how to better myself with the resources I have. Anything is apreciated. Thanks!

David Kutassy · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5

You've been climbing longer than me but the only advice I have is don't climb TO much. Its what I'm experiencing right now and having a hard time getting rid of tennis elbow and other tendon related pain in my forearms. Along with some carpal pain in my right hand. Climbing feels good but I need to stick to easier climbs and stretch well immediately after climbing.

Kinda sucks since I'm just breaking into the 5.11 range but an injury would be a huge set back. I've been progressing very fast just staying focused on technique when I climb. Especially how to weight my feet for edging and flagging techniques really helped me climb harder grades.

Rocks and Snow · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

Get a second job so you can start amassing large quantities of expensive gear. Then go ahead and quit both jobs so you actually have time to use all that awesome new gear.

plantmandan · · Brighton, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 85

If you are hooked on climbing, you'd probably be much happier living in a different part of the country. Create a plan and make it happen.

As for outdoor climbing, there is much more to it than sending routes. Find a mentor, read some John Long books, and learn everything you can about rope management, belaying, anchors, rappelling, gear, communication with your partners, and getting off the crag safely.

Most of all, have fun! Whether you climb 5.12 or 5.4, that's the main idea, right?

flynn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 25

Find a mentor, definitely. Maybe even more than one. Best way to learn all the stuff Plantmandan mentioned and live to tell the tale. Listen to your gut if it tells you somebody is really solid, or kinda squirrelly.

It's hugely helpful to read, too. John Long's books are comprehensive, reliably accurate and more entertaining than any textbook should ever be. Memorize them.

Try not to absorb everything at once. That includes physical discipline: you're climbing stuff now that has some pretty tiny holds. Be meticulous about looking after your fingers and joints. One nasty tweak will slow you down for longer than you'd like.

And yeah, definitely have fun!!

djh860 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 110

Keep a training journal and make safety a priority

Seth Carmer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Thanks for all the replies. I'll definitely look into John Long's books. As of right now I'm finishing colege to get an EMT certification to hopefully use towards being a climbing guide. I need to wait two more years before I can move as I have a military obligation but I'd love to. Just trying to become the best sport climber I can while saving money and working towards a trad set.

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

Move.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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