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Routes in Altered States Gully
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A Bright Shining Lie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Above and Beyond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Air Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Altered States T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Angel's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Betty's Altered Elbow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Betty's In 3D T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Borrowed Time T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Cheap Thrills T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Clutching at Straws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Del Tongo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Discrete Feat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Dropping Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Eagle Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Latter Day Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Magic Circus T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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March of the Gumby Bears T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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March of the Gummi Bears T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pearly Gates T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Proscenium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Rhino's Chin, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Romance on the Rocks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Slash, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sleight of Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Slip Slidin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sticky Fingers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stumpy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Thoroughflare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Zenith T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Ruckman, Ruckman |
| Page Views: | 701 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on Jul 6, 2005 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Del Tongo's first pitch climbs up the ramp past the start of Bright Shining Lie until the end of the ramp. It then climbs some weak flakes up and left that don't protect real well. The second pitch climbs up just left of the anchors with an unprotected 5.9 crux. Protection can be gained as you reach the flake. It then follows weaknesses to the left portion of the obvious "Wizard's Chin". From this point it follows Magic Circus' line up the left-facing crack.
Protection
1 bolt to the 1st two bolt anchor. 2 bolt anchor that it shares with A Bright Shining Lie. Bring a couple of micro-cams for the flake above the 1st anchor, and bring larger gear for the portion that joins in with Magic Circus' left-facing crack. We used my largest hex, and #2 Camalot's and larger.
Photos
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