What's your favorite obscure NH cliff?

New Hampshire has so much climbing to offer. The hordes assemble at Rumney (for good reason) which had always pushed me to explore elsewhere. A few problems with obscure cliffs are they get overgrown fast and typically have a longer or more committing approach.

What are YOUR favorite Rumney alternatives and why?

I had a great time bringing the kids out to Mt Oscar. It's a pretty drive through Franconia Notch for me, parking usually isn't an issue, the approach is flat until the relatively short jaunt up the hill to the cliff, lots of good climbing (30+ routes?) on mostly less than vertical rock with good flat areas along the cliff base. I wish some of the routes were tailored for a 60m rope but oh well, no biggie.

^^Yes, we were the only ones there. I only followed, didn't lead. But was nice that we could let our sometimes mischievous dogs run amuck. Two climbs were 15' too long and you had to take care with rope stretching a 60m to anchor (for TR). Hoping to put a lead on that beautiful crack this year, Oscar the Grouch???

i can tell you one I'm really excited to check out. Eagle mountain I think it's called. I was suppose to get there last fall but had to work.

A friend has bolted quite a few new routes. He and his wife are excellent climbers so I bet the lines are super fun.

Matt, if you read this I haven't forgot! Hopefully you won't be in Mexico the next time I park myself in North Conway for a while.

Tom Sherman wrote:^^Yes, we were the only ones there. I only followed, didn't lead. But was nice that we could let our sometimes mischievous dogs run amuck. Two climbs were 15' too long and you had to take care with rope stretching a 60m to anchor (for TR). Hoping to put a lead on that beautiful crack this year, Oscar the Grouch???

Aye, "the Raven route" (whatever it's called) on the far right was a rope stretcher for sure. Oscar the Grouch was great (SHARP - definitely tape unless you're into pain or have tough hands). The route that goes up the overlap to the right of Oscar the Grouch was great too. We let our sometimes mischievous kids run amuck. :P Really peaceful outing for sure.

I haven't talked to Jamie but I suspect there could be adventures had on pitches above the initial documented ones.

Natasha and I are also excited to check out both North Bald Cap and The Outlook after seeing photos from Jack Dorsey's outing. The rock looks pretty cool and the approach to The Outlook looks fairly short (albeit 1300ft).

All of them !

If I told you I would have to shoot you ;)

...these last two guys will never give up their secrets! I'm not even sure buying John good beers could get him to talk!

Middle Sugarloaf
North Percy Peak (one route but a fun day out!)
Stuff out in Lyme

Bah, John is easy to get to talk, if he knows you are a fellow new routing addict ;)

It is funny how many people act like a nice hour hike to a cliff is a huge trek, yet they will blow hours on the internet or watching a football game that they are not even part of. If you are really focused on just doing lots of routes to climb higher numbers, it does get harder going further out. It helps to learn tricks of the trade though. (like inviting big strong friends along to carry the heavy shit in or feigning injury when it is time to carry it out)

Its also important to lie about the approach....
Oh its about 20 min, ticks arn't too bad, rock quality is great and there is only a little bit of poision ivy;)

Nick Goldsmith wrote:Its also important to lie about the approach.... Oh its about 20 min, ticks arn't too bad, rock quality is great and there is only a little bit of poision ivy;)

This, and "the water crossing is only past your knees most of the season". :D

Nick Goldsmith wrote:If I told you I would have to shoot you ;)

+1 they're not online and it's gonna stay that way. :-)

Unless i get bored some rainy day ??

Greens and Bartlett haystack have the most potential in NH..maybe

I CAN be bought

Some of the climbs at oscar are "too long" to TR with a 60 ? Too Bad..pitches should not be set up to be a convenient length , they should end at a logical point,, not some arbitrary length

Woodchuck ledge, because of screaming yellow zonkers the sweetest of finger cracks!

Nick Goldsmith wrote:Its also important to lie about the approach.... Oh its about 20 min, ticks arn't too bad, rock quality is great and there is only a little bit of poision ivy;)

Hah! Only 20 minutes to The Captain... just past this clearing, c'mon!

I prefer to say "20 minutes at a time"

Stone House. Love that spot.

not too obscure but attitash crags and dickey slabs are all great spots that are usually quiet. Ditto wildriver though the climbing is pretty hard over all.

These days sundown and woodchuck count as obscure crags.

jim

Bill Kirby wrote: i can tell you one I'm really excited to check out. Eagle mountain I think it's called. I was suppose to get there last fall but had to work. A friend has bolted quite a few new routes. He and his wife are excellent climbers so I bet the lines are super fun. Matt, if you read this I haven't forgot! Hopefully you won't be in Mexico the next time I park myself in North Conway for a while.

If there are bolted routes is it still an obscure cliff? Seems bolted routes are a definite sign of civilization and maybe not so obscure.