Easy Joshua Tree Top Roping

Hi there,

I'm visiting JT in a couple weeks. My boyfriend and I are not lead climbers but are decent top ropers. We are looking for TR routes that have trail approaches where we can set up gear and repel down. He does know HOW to lead, so technically we can lead climb to the top and set up an anchor, but we aren't that experienced so don't feel safe taking the risk outdoors quite yet. Can anyone recommend good spots we can approach from the back to set up instead of leading the face? Thanks!

Sarah,

A good start for finding top-ropeable routes is to get a guidebook and check out the descents. If the descent is an easy walk-off (not class 4 or 5), then there is a good chance you can set up a toprope. I don't think you will find any with a "trail" to the top, as some scrambling will be involved.

The climbing shop in the town of Joshua Tree, Nomad Ventures, has many guidebooks for sale. Or, you can order one online to research the climbs in advance.

One of the easiest walk-offs is on Future Games Rock, and you can set up a top rope on Invisibility Lessons (5.9).

Good luck.

Edit: Hiring a guide would be a good way to go, too. There are several guide services that work J-Tree.

You might get better recommendations if you describe the difficulty you're looking to climb. Also, you didn't specify whether you're heading to Indian Cove or the main part of the park. Like most have said, many things at Josh are pretty easily toproped. Given that, crowds, not access to the top of a climb, may be the biggest limitations you have. Some popular areas to top rope off the top of my head:

Trashcan Rock
Thin Wall
Atlantis area
Short Wall

There's too much to name really. A better approach might be to see what looks nice to you and then see if you can set up a TR. Have fun.

hey locker Im the boyfriend taking Sarah climbing. I have plenty of web and rope for anchoring, I'm very comfortable setting up anchors and cleaning routes.. Im not into trad yet I've only been climbing a handful of times. but i do have a rack of nuts and plenty of draws. I don't have any cams.. i was reading a lot of places that said there were TR, but i needed cams as well? That confuses me since once you set up a top rope you shouldn't need any PRO.. Basically i wanted to set up some top ropes 5.8 and under so Sarah can have fun climbing.. and i would like to set up some on 5.9-10b,c so i can also have fun.. I'm probable going to do some lead climbing once i find the perfect place that i can have Sarah practice belaying a lead climber.. We are early risers and i don't think beating a crowd will be a prob. but i also don't want to be surrounded by people all day seclusion would be nice. thank

Jesse,

It's just that cams are more versatile than nuts for building anchors. What if the anchor needs a 2" cam? And it's a parallel crack? You might be able to get by on nuts only, but it will limit your ability to build anchors.

I understand what the gear is for. im confused because some of the things ive read about the Top rope set ups. when they say they have bolts at the top and that you also need cams? If you have double pro from the bolts then cams shouldnt be needed right? basically it seems after reading alot of peoples set up that im going to need cams to be able to top rope more places that dont have bolts. ill have more to choose from if i go get some cams in my life.

If there is a two-bolt anchor, the only reason you would need any cams for toproping is for directionals. In case the line is diagonal or not directly under the anchor.

JesseMax wrote:Basically i wanted to set up some top ropes 5.8 and under so Sarah can have fun climbing.. and i would like to set up some on 5.9-10b,c so i can also have fun.

And you apparently also want bolted anchors. Which really, really limits what's available to you. The Thin Wall has at least 2 sets of fixed anchors, on bolts or shuts, (last time I was up there, a third set had been chopped but that's been years ago), and has several pitches in the grade range you're looking for. It also has lots of people on a typical weekend.

If you only have stoppers, no cams, I'd take a longish piece of static line and plan on using it in anchor rigging, without a proper rack you may need to sling plates or blocks, or set nuts way back from the edge in places. Based on the gear you have and what you're looking for, I'd go to Thin Wall and just deal with the crowds.

Sarah and I went to pinnacles Nat. park for our fist ever outdoors climbing.. It was a little sketchy at times,We made it back safe and sound didn't take unnecessary risk. I def know how to rig the gear safely. I guess i just need to know what I'm walking into before i get there and the proper gear to bring. Thanks for the advise.

JessyMax.... just jump into the lead game.... Go and do the upper right ski track. Its like 5.5+ it will take some gear that is easy and safe and you get to bolts on top to anchor into and rap on down. Almost all the climbing at JT is real climbing, no unnecessary bolting is allowed (locals decide not the NPS) The place was never set up along modern sport ethics. You will find belay bolts more than 1/2 of a rope lenght! So beware do not get caught out assuming things.

Belle Campground has what your looking for... some easy face climbing, some easy cracks and some hard face climbing. Find the obvious climb "belly up" and walk to the left a bit (40 feet) you will find a 4th class face that gets harder and steeper the more you go left.... you can rig all sorts of different TR set ups...

Get a guidebook, good info in most about TRs and down climbs.

Have fun, be safe.

hi,

a.) echo cove could be a good place for you; you can walk to the top of the cliffs; the belay stations at the top are bolted (two bolts each). the cove is horseshoe shaped, so there is both shade and sun during the day. easier grades.
b.) yes, get into the lead game;
c.) nomad ventures has all the guidebooks not only on display but has an "in-shop library/reading copies"

have fun!

Locker wrote:If you have a bit of a clue as to how to set up safely and such, you for sure DO NOT need a guide!

I see plenty of folks out climbing that have a bit of a clue and think they are being safe that FOR SURE need a guide or a mentor before they hurt or kill themselves or their partner.

I can't think of that many areas that have bolts up top to rig easy TRs. You have to remember that Josh is a trad area and so for many years convenience anchors were frowned upon, and still are. If you can place gear, have gear and can walk or scramble off then there's no need for bolts. Even lots of sport routes have anchors you can't reach from up top so that it's easier to lower off, etc. Others who have climbed in the park more recently than I will probably have a much better idea of where you can find bolted anchors. I'm wondering if there might be a better area for you to visit if you have only draws.

If you're not comfortable leading with gear I'd think long and hard about setting TR anchors with gear. Almost every place in JT that's easy to get to the top of has no bolts. Be safe and have a great trip!

Using the search tool in the Route Guide with the following filters, Rock routes (Toprope) in Joshua Tree National Park between 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c and 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c with a quality score of at least 0 stars sorted by Area then by Difficulty, yields 222 results.

Drederek wrote:If you're not comfortable leading with gear I'd think long and hard about setting TR anchors with gear. Almost every place in JT that's easy to get to the top of has no bolts. Be safe and have a great trip!

huh? That's how you learn to lead.

TRing on gear anchors set up by someone who hasn't yet placed much gear? Probably fine. Probably. Personally I wouldn't accept that risk without checking on that anchor first. The consequences of a failed TR anchor can be very high.

As my friend Locker stated, "yer gonna die!"