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Red Rocks Summer Climbing

Original Post
Daniel Tocci · · White Plains, NY · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 45

Hi,

I climbed at Red Rocks for the first time two weeks ago (April 3rd to the 10th). It was an amazing experience, I'm all ready looking to go back.

With that being said, I am a science teacher in NY and have the summer off. Can anyone provide first hand knowledge about climbing at Red Rocks during July or August? Is the place a complete oven or can you find salvation within the canyons and climb? Am I being a complete moron to even consider climbing in the desert during the summer?

Thanks for your help,

Daniel

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

Daniel...you can climb in Red Rock all summer, I know plenty of folks who do (there are tons of full shaded routes)...but they live in the area, budget, work, etc limits their ability to travel to cooler destinations. You have a choice. I advise you enjoy the eastern Sierra (i.e. Tuolumne Meadows has a lot of Red Rock type routes, short to medium length, mixed crack and face). With money, travel and time being equal, picking RR in July and August is not a very wise decision. Good way to lose weight though. Cheers

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Is it possible to climb in Red Rocks during the summer? Yes it is; the locals do it. The trick is to get up early and hike into the canyons in the dawn hours before the heat becomes too severe, and to seek out routes that are high up, shady (shade is 100% mandatory), and exposed to wind. If it is 100 or less in town (think late May...under 100 is rare in July/August in Vegas) it can be reasonably pleasant in the canyons. If it is 115 in town, which is pretty much normal for July/August, it will be a heatstroke sufferfest even in the shade.

Should you spend your summer vacation at Red Rocks. No. Absolutely not. Yes, Red Rocks is wonderful, but summer is decidedly their off-season. If you can go anywhere in the US/Canada, it would be foolish to go somehwere that is unpleasantly hot and out of season. There are many equally great areas that have perfect weather and pleasant temperatures at that time of year. The Northwest in August is paradise. Same with the High Sierra, and parts of Colorado and Wyoming.

So where to go? Assuming moderate multipitching is what you seek (based on Red Rocks love), go to Squamish or Tuolumne. Both are amazing.

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5

I climbed there in June, it was about 100-105 during the days I was there. We chose shady routes and brought plenty of water, and it was quite sweaty and warm but not actually unpleasant. I was stuck in Vegas for a few days anyway, so between braving the heat and climbing and sitting in an AC casino, it was a no-brainer.
That being said, I would not have chosen to visit Red Rock in June, just ended up there - and I imagine July and August are worse.

As others have said, there are better places to visit at that time of year, I'd check those out and save Red Rock for Spring or Fall break. But if you're determined to spend your summer there, yes it can be done with enough water, chalk, and sunscreen.

Tyson Anderson · · SLC, UT · Joined May 2007 · Points: 126

Don't do it. Locals climb there in the summer because the climbing can be nice if you find a shady route but if you are going to travel somewhere there are much better places to go.

I'd go to squamish.

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340

Come on out.... it'll be fine ;)
In all actuality you can climb here in Vegas year round but it might not all be in RR. In July its gunna be HOT so RR is gunna be hot buuut you can climb at Mt Charleston(8500') in the forest and it's only 30-45 min drive depending on traffic/area of town. In August you'll have better luck than July, depending on the monsoons...now, this is good or bad ...clouds bring lower temps especially in the canyons so that's good, but rain makes the rock fragile which means no climbing and that's bad. We do have limestone crags being developed on the edge of town and they can be climbed with rain but I wouldn't say to come to vegas for those. Now if your like TC & KJ you'd just say fuck it and climb all night in beautiful temps....don't forget your headlamp w/ ummmm... shit,what was the name of the battery co. again?

Daniel Tocci · · White Plains, NY · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 45

Thanks group for the information. I suppose I was being a little over anxious about getting back to Red Rocks. Seeing I have the summer off I probably should explore a climbing location where I won't fry.

Seeing a number of your guys mentioned Squamish or Tuolumne, looks like I may be heading to the West Coast this summer.

Thanks again

Daniel

Daniel Tocci · · White Plains, NY · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 45

Hey Guys,

I have one more question.

Based on your recommendations I've been checking out Tuolumne Meadows. It looks like another awesome climbing destination and the location I'll most likely visit this summer.

I found two guide books for the area.

Tuolumne Free Climbs: 2nd Edition
August 20, 2009
By Greg Barnes, Chris McNamara, Steve Roper

Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows
March 1, 2006
By Don Reid, Chris Falkenstein

Can you recommend any other guide books I should check out.

Thanks,

Daniel

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

those books will have everything you need....tell me what routes you enjoyed at Red Rock and I will give some similar recommendations for Tuolumne. Cheers

vincent L. · · Redwood City · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 560

Go to Tuolumne this summer , you won't be disappointed . I'm a teacher also ...

Daniel Tocci · · White Plains, NY · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 45

During my week in Red Rocks I climbed,

Silk Panties 5.7
The Last Panty 5.7
Sacred Undergarment Squeeze Job 5.8
Boxer Rebellion 5.7
Panty Prow 5.6
Panty Mime 5.10d
Go Ahead and Jump 5.6
Tonto (Direct Variation) 5.7
Cold September Corner 5.8
Birdland 5.7+
Valentines Day 5.8+
Soupy Sales 5.7
Ace of Hearts 5.10d
The Singing Love Pen 5.9
Dark Shadows 5.8
Carrie Fissure 5.8
Caliban 5.8+

Vincent. L thanks for the advice and encouragement.

Daniel

Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,025

The meadows is open

flynn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 25

A few beauties in Tuolomne:

Hobbit Book, 5.7.
Cathedral Peak, 5.6 to 5.8 depending on which way you go
Fairview's Regular Route, some 5.9, but most of it much easier
Great Pumpkin on Fairview, 5.8
West Crack on Daff Dome, 5.9
South Crack - uhh, forgot!

Consider staying at the Sawmill campground downhill from Tioga Pass: huge, beautiful, cheap walk-in campsites. There should be some available, much unlike the campground near RR.
Do something in Tuolomne that you cannot do at RR: revel in the summits where you can't see a road, powerline, or building. Just the bones of the earth...
Yet another (now-retired) teacher!

Daniel Tocci · · White Plains, NY · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 45

Flynn,

Thank you for the great advice! I truly appreciate it.

Daniel

Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,025

That last storm dumped at Tuolumne. Tioga Pass Road was closed so check conditions.

Jeff Nova · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

How about in early September?? Are there shaded "beginner" climbs that would suit me best?
Besides water (how much for a 1/2 day??) what else would be good to bring for eating or drinking?

Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,025

Jeff,

Your profile didn't list much but the last couple years it has been pretty warm in Red Rocks in September. As a monitor, 95° downtown Las Vegas means Black Velvet west of Refried Brains will be T shirt conditions and not too hot... 75 to 80°; depends on your heat tolerance. I know some locals climb in the canyons all summer.

You could check almanac statistics on weatherunderground.

I've been climbing at Mt.Charleston or anywhere but Red Rocks till mid October last 5 years.

My normal water load for climbing, time of year you mentioned is 3 liters of liquid. If you're going to try something in Black Velvet or around the Rainbow Wall area keep in mind you'll consume extra liquid on the hot hike out. If you contemplate something lengthy, a water stash placed a few days prior is something to consider. Purified water from a "water factory" or sealed bottles will keep for a couple weeks without going bad. Please reclaim your stash on the way out.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
flynn wrote:A few beauties in Tuolomne: Hobbit Book, 5.7. Cathedral Peak, 5.6 to 5.8 depending on which way you go Fairview's Regular Route, some 5.9, but most of it much easier Great Pumpkin on Fairview, 5.8 West Crack on Daff Dome, 5.9 South Crack - uhh, forgot!
South Crack is 5.8. There is a 35' runout on 5.6 - 5.7 terrain.

I'd also add
Great White Book - 5.6 and pretty unique. There is a 120' runout on the crux pitch, but if you fall in the leaning OW/chimney thing, you don't really fall out as much as into the route. Bring a #5 cam.
Zee Tree 5.7
Dike Route 5.8 - BUT, do it only after getting comfortable with the Meadows run-outs. The crux is knobs at least 20' out from the last pair of bolts.
Needle & Spoon - 10a/b
Lunar Leap 5.9-
Truck 'n Drive 8+
Cryin' Time Again - 5.9, but make sure your second is comfortable doing 7+/8- moves with a 25' pendulum potential (this is either at the top of the crux pitch with the bolt ladder or the next - I forget). Walk off on the ledge at the start of the final pitch unless you want to do 5.9X.
Ciebola - 10b. Again, big pendulum fall potential for the second at the top of the second pitch - consider a back-belay with a second rope (which you'll need for the raps anyway).
The Coming - 5.9 or 10a alternate (and better) start. Know that the 5.6 knobs third pitch has a single bolt at 80' as the only pro on the pitch.
On The Lamb - 9+/10a (short section - rest of route is predominantly 7 & 8)
Golfer's Route - 5.7
Darth Vader's Revenge - 10a
West Crack - 9-
Great Circle Route - 10a
Hogwash - 10c

flynn wrote: Consider staying at the Sawmill campground downhill from Tioga Pass: huge, beautiful, cheap walk-in campsites.
I forget - is that outside the park entrance? If so, getting into the park can mean an extra 30 minutes of waiting to get through the entrance kiosk, depending on time of day and traffic.
Jeff Nova · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0
Your profile didn't list much but the last couple years it has been pretty warm in Red Rocks in September.

Thanks Thomas...

Ya a newbie at rock climbing and very much a newbie at Red Rocks Canyon and wondering what the **** I've got myself into!!! LOL

Oh well didn't have much choice on the time of year, just hope we end up at a nice shaded spot for the afternoon, as I hear the early morning (8-9am)can be OK temperature wise.
BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340

trad or sport? you'll def want to chase shade the whole day...start with sw/w facing then move around to n/ne/e facing for afternoon.

Jeff Nova · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Thanks BIGB...

Looking forward to the climb...even in the heat!


And plus....it is VEGAS!! :)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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