Mountain Project Logo

Geek out, quick draw component discussion

Original Post
mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Not necessarily complete draws here, unless there is something you think does everything you want, just the components:

Bolt side biner (for sport) or alternatives for trad
Rope side biner
dogbone

My own preferences:

Bolt side Biner: For sport, keylock straight gate. Older Petzl spirits come to mind. For general purpose trad I use general purpose light wire gates like CAMP orbit, Metolius Inferno.

Rope side: easy clipping light wire gate, I really like bent gate Camp orbits, except a few of my older ones the gates are becoming progressively sticky and occasionally stick open. Clean and lube helps a little, but I need to start replacing these. Wondering about alternatives.

dogbone: For sport draws comes down to Petzl spirit vs BD vari width. For Trad, just about any softer dyneema dogbone, prefer they have some give and twist,

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Cool thread!

All ice season I use Camp Photon straight, key lock biners for ice screw side and Photon bent wire gate biners and Dynex slings and dog bones

Rock season I use Petzl Ange QDs and Camp Orbit wires and misty Mountain nylon slings for trad draws.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120
Bill Kirby wrote:Cool thread! All ice season I use Camp Photon straight, key lock biners for ice screw side and Photon bent wire gate biners and Dynex slings and dog bones Rock season I use Petzl Ange QDs and Camp Orbit wires and misty Mountain nylon slings for trad draws.
Come to think of it, I just climbed a bunch of sport with a guy who has CAMP draws. The Bolt side keylock was quite nice, but I still prefer wire gates for rope side.

Also climbed with another partner who loved his DMM Alphas. I wasn;t used to the biner's shape and I had a terrible time clipping the rope end biners.
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

The only trouble with wire gate Photons is gate flutter. I wouldn't wanna fall on a Photon bent wire gate. That's why I only use Photons for racking biners and for ice climbing.

DMM Alpha carabiners is expensive plus I don't feel those would benefit me at the level I'm at. Still though those things are nice!

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Wire gates are supposed to be less prone to flutter due to lower mass of the gate. (also depends on gate spring tension)

Joe Virtanen · · Charlotte, NC · Joined May 2010 · Points: 241

I'm a big fan of thick dogbones and keylocks for sport (who isn't?). Trango Reacts fill all my sport criteria for a good draw and are much cheaper than Spirits.

For trad I use slings (dyneema and some BD nylon) and Camp Photons, as well as Photons for racking biners on my cams. Photons are very light, quite large and easy to handle and get the rope into.

Gate flutter with wiregates? They dramatically reduce the effect of gate flutter.

Jonathan Mullen · · Seattle, WA · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

For sport, a thick dogbone (ex. Petzl express) in a few assorted lenghts, mainly short. With Wild Country Helium biners (red and silver) for hard and soft side. I like the biners, the don't get stuck on hangers, but have a better design (IMO) than the BD hoodwires, which have that extra wire component to break.

For trad, same biners on slings, no quick draws.

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

Trad draws:

Gear end: DMM Alpha Trad's (red)
Sling: Mammut Contact strap dyneema (red)
Rope end: CAMP Photon's (silver)

Awesome combination.

Cliffhanger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 5

I prefer keylock for both ends. Easier to unclip the rope when following or cleaning overhanging routes where it is easier to get the rope out first.

I use wire gate biners on both ends when trad climbing. Helps keep weight down.

I like longer nylon dogbones for durability and to ease rope drag.

Noah Haber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 78
Sport draws:
Bolt end: Petzl Spirit straight gate (old version)
Dogbone: Either Black Diamond Vari-width or Petzl Express
Rope end: DMM Alpha Clip

Trad draws:
Gear end: Wild Country Helium
Runner: Mammut Contact Sling
Rope end: Wild Country Helium
Eric LaRoche · · West Swanzey, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 25

For sport draws I use Wild Country Oxygen straight gates for the bolt, Wild Country Nitros for rope end and WC'd standard dogbone that comes with the Nitros. Or DMM Aero Straight Gate bolt end, Spectre 2 rope end with standard DMM dogbone from Spectre draws.

I do wish more companies would offer solid straight gate bolt end and wire gate rope end combos standard.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Geek out, quick draw component discussion"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.