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Robbins Traverse on The Yellow Spur

Original Post
Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

This is beta begging for sure, so I apologize now if you don't like that sort of thing.

I've followed this route and feel like I can lead the first four pitches, and the 6th pitch just fine. I had a little issue with what I believe is known as the "pin ladder" (the section before the choice between the traverse and the direct route on P5). I slipped once, and I may slip next time too, but it's pretty well protected from what I remember. I know I can't get the direct route after this section, because I couldn't do it seconding (defeatest attitude maybe, but I don't think I'm up to it yet). So I'm interested if anyone has any photos of the traverse, info about pro and where the pin is, or just any general advice for this section. I did check the comments on the route guide and the photos but didn't get quite what I was hoping for. I'm not set on leading it any time soon, but it's a possibility because I really enjoyed a lot of this route.

Shiho · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 100

There is no gear for the traverse if I remember right. It's 5.7 run-out.

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

Well thanks. I guess that's not such a great option any time in the near future, but it's good to know.

Brendan Magee · · Parker, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0

Right after the pin ladder, I think most people will clip the first bolt of the direct finish with a double length runner and head climber's left. There is no gear, but if I remember correctly it felt fine. It's a really short traverse and basically shuffle your feet left.

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

Brendan, thank you. If you can remember, how are the hand holds? I expect them to be pretty positive for 5.7 but then again it's a classic so it might be a little more than that? How's the belay at the arête gearwise?

Paul-B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 115

I guess I throw my memory of the traverse in... Disclaimer: Ive climbed it once, over a year ago.

As the previous poster said, you head up the pin ladder, its pretty obvious where you exit for the traverse, I clipped the high pin above the traverse with a double length sling. I'd guess its about a 20-30 foot left and upward traverse with out gear. I was not a particularly strong leader at the time, however, I felt it was easier than 5.7. I was struggling with Eldo 5.9 at the time, but breezed through the traverse with out concerns. Grades are, of course, always subject to personal opinions, perhaps I was just feeling good that day. I remember the pin coming sooner than I expected, and before and real difficult moves. The pitch is all about staying calm, if you get sketched and start shaking, you could take a very large whip and pendulum. If you hold it together mentally, I think you'll breeze through it (assuming you are at least comfortable on Eldo 5.8).

J. Broussard · · CordryCorner · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 50

The hand holds are not that great, the 5.7 rating is because there's a great foot ledge to shuffle across. You could find a good belay spot just around the arete, but it's probably best to scramble another 60' to the summit.

I get stuck on the traverse everytime, mustering up the courage to make the final move left. I just take my time and it always works out.

The direct is great too. On lead, the final bolt is right in your face while your crank the 10a move. Get it!

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

Thanks guys, I feel better about that option now.

And I do remember the direct route being well protected, I just also remember climbing the bolts because I was pretty sketched out at the time. I was having a bad day and following someone who I'd just met. I've lead a few 5.10a sport routes clean, although I've also heard the direct route is a bit stiffer than that.

Good to have options.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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