4 days in NH last week of April?

What should I climb? I'Ve climbed in NH a few times, but mostly in winter. I've done Beast/Recompense but not much else. I've been to Rumney and don't really feel like going there this trip. We like long routes, and I'll lead up to about mid-5.11 on gear. Really prefer more moderate, long alpine type objectives over easy approaches and shorter/harder climbing. What are the conditions like on Mt Washington right now? Is there anything that still requires crampons/tools (this would be a big plus). I looked at the avy report. What are things like from a climbing perspective?

Maybe the Whitney Gilman? I've not done it in cold conditions but supposedly stays dry. Approach and walk off might be interesting.

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Hotter than Hell, Inferno Link-up on South Buttress of Whitehorse. Anything on the Wonder Wall. Jacobs Ladder, Last Unicorn, Sleeping Beauty, Revolt of the Dike Brigade, Seventh Seal to Loose Lips, Children's Crusade.

Stuff on Cannon will still be loose, Whitney- Gilman should be dry but there still may be loose stuff on it.

Pinnacle as of this weekend was still full of ice, so the gullies should still all be climbable next week, not sure what avy reports will be by then though. Not sure if they are getting snow right now with all this rain we are getting in the southern part of the state.

Damnation and North have melted out, Yale looks bad too. Central, Pinnacle, and Odells are marginal at best, with underminded, soft ice and tons of running water. Snow levels in thenfan are down 36". We have rain coming over the next few days: if you're interested in Washington, it'll be Pinnacle Buttress with a muddy, snowy, shit approach. You'd be far better served to check out the South Buttress on Whitehorse where you'll find more than several long, adventurous routes across the grade spectrum.

Dang Chris, I just talked to someone who had friends go up pinnacle this past Friday and the pictures looked it was still in pretty well. Shitty approach was to be expected, but I figured it would make it another week. Looks like I won't be getting up there this year then, I was planning next weekend as well.

Don't go to Cannon quite yet. Cannon is very, very unstable, particularly in the spring months. I usually wait until well into May at the earliest to get on anything on Cannon.

I would head towards Cathedral and Whitehorse. Chris' suggestions on Whitehorse are good ones for finding dry rock.

I was on Pinnacle last Friday too (think your friends were behind us by a bit). The climbing was good, albeit soaking wet and unprotectable. I typically climb Pinnacle roped in 2 pitches: the first to the pins, the second to the top of the buttress with a running belay. Friday, I placed 5 screws on the entirety of the route. One was good, fortunately it was the last screw which protected the running belay. We chose to down climb Odells: conditions were similar. I expect the rain falling now to create greater objective hazards; any endeavor in Huntington's aside from Pinnacle Buttress will be a risky affair.. and these are routes that I routelinely solo.

It's rock season!!!!!

Thanks, everyone, for all the information and suggestions.

Would there be any reason to bring skis and skins for anything?

My youngest skinned up to Tucks this morning and skied down, he said it was icy. Rain coming tonight. Wildcat isn't too bad yet from what I have seen.

There will be skiing. BUT, expect to carry your skis from the car. Microspikes will be more useful than skins. I'd expect the Shurburne will be out, as will the Gulf of Slides ski trail. Tuckerman's will sport falling ice and opening crevasses, typical for this time of year. Best to check conditions as you're packing. We're forecasted to have 1.5" of rain today/ tonight/ tomorrow, which will definitely impact things. The Mountain Washington Avalanche Center website is an excellent resource.

Sunny crags: South Buttress, Humphries, the main cliff at Rumney, Shell, Longstack.