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Falling: good or bad?

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

The problem with the "falling is ok/good" mentality is you will be conditioned to use it as an out. Every time the going gets tough - especially when you botch a sequence - you will just "fall" - actually jump but you think you are falling. When the times comes and you find yourself in a don't fall/fight to the death situation - you won't have a clue.

Cody Robinson · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 40
Aleks Zebastian wrote: Climbing friend, I believe the doing of the hangboarding is for the peoples with too much sexual frustration.
Hahaha you win. It all depends on the gear though. On well protected stuff it's good to push your comfort zone and take falls sometimes. If it's runout or the gear is shitty, the leader does not fall.
Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

The only time I've actually fallen on gear was when I was down climbing because I couldn't see the sequence, couldn't see more placements and was getting pumped. I was holding on in the way a cat sinks it's claws in when I did finally fall, and up until the point I came off I really didn't know if I was gonna to or not. That whole pitch was full of mistakes and desperation, but I learn a lot from it.

I'm definitely at a point where I'll push in certain sections of a route, where I'm well protected (and with the pro close to me) and where the fall zone looks pretty clear. But because I feel confidence in the system at that moment, it's not a big deal. 10' above gear, or with a less than ideal fall zone below me, I feel much less confident.

It's been very interesting to read all the replies and seems that the general feeling is that it's good to push your limits when the pro is good, the belay is good, and the fall zone is clear. But not to get into a mindset that it's okay to fall without first assessing the situation, and that ideally, that assessment should be a continuous and ongoing process.

Shirtless Mike · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 5,839
Healyje wrote: I suspect only a few very rare souls ever climb anywhere close to their physical limit on any consistent or regular basis.
This part I disagree with, I think it is very common in higher end climbing (sport and well protected trad) to fully go for it until you either reach a rest or fall off. This may be something that separates the higher end climbers; the ability to truly go for it and put the fall completely out of their mind. I can see in my various partners the ones who go for it, and the ones who don't. This is one of my favorite aspects of climbing, the ability to go for it 100% with negligible consequences, this is not true in other outdoor sports, skiing, mtn biking for example. (Note: That I do a agree that the leader should be constantly aware of the fall potential and take appropriate precautions, however with experience this can happen almost sub-consciously on well protected overhung routes.)

Healyje wrote:That said, however, I'd still say that in forty-one years of climbing I've probably climbed at my true physical limit only a handful of times - like less than a dozen - and half of those I was going to die if I didn't.
This I agree is a total rarity, putting yourself at your physical limit (or even close to it) when injury / death is on the line. While I respect and even admire climbers who can do this, it isn't for me, I have absolutely no interest in approaching my physical limits above a bad fall. The times that I have done hard climbing above a bad fall or bad gear, i was unhappy with the outcome. While I got to the anchor safely, the risk wasn't worth it.
Shane Zentner · · Colorado · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 205
Tony B wrote:I've taken maybe 50 lead falls in my life, on real rock. Probably fewer. That represents about 26 years of climbing. They come in groups- when I feel like pushing myself a bit more. Otherwise, I'm happy being a 'solid' climber at my level and don't feel like working routes. It's just not the point to me. If someone told me I wasn't climbing hard enough, I guess I'd say: "OK, but I'm enjoying what I am doing." I don't feel compelled to either fall or completely avoid it. I'm generally and onsight climber.
I agree with Tony's logic completely. Falling, at least for me, occurs in groups when I feel compelled to push my boundaries and stretch my limits. Otherwise, I usually climb at my level. That said, falling is neither good nor bad, it just happens. However, it should happen naturally.
Eric Bites · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0
Budd Rick wrote: But I suppose with enough knowledge and confidence one could feel "comfortable" falling on ice.
I sure hope not.
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
Eric Bites wrote: I sure hope not.
We all saw this right? youtube.com/watch?v=VykqqON… It is fine/thin line between ice and rock climbing
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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