Type: | Trad |
FA: | Jimmy Dunn, Doug Snively, 1972 |
Page Views: | 4,887 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | J Hickok on May 19, 2002 |
Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route is a great lead for the beginner leader who is not yet ready for many of the 5.10 desert climbs. When you look up at the River Road Dihedrals, the route is the most obvious splitter with rappel slings in the right side of a chimney about 85-90 ft up.
Begin with easy face moves on rock of poorer quality. I felt like it was more scenic to belay from the anchors... after tying off long you can even peek over the lip and watch the progress of the second.
Rappel: was able to make the soft sand off a single 60 meter rope, which indicates that the route description is incorrect in the Desert Rock II guide.
After doing this, try Bloody Knees for a longer more sustained and wider climb. If you do Bloody Knees, remember that it requires a larger rack and two ropes to rappel. (Hint: bring wide gear!)
Begin with easy face moves on rock of poorer quality. I felt like it was more scenic to belay from the anchors... after tying off long you can even peek over the lip and watch the progress of the second.
Rappel: was able to make the soft sand off a single 60 meter rope, which indicates that the route description is incorrect in the Desert Rock II guide.
After doing this, try Bloody Knees for a longer more sustained and wider climb. If you do Bloody Knees, remember that it requires a larger rack and two ropes to rappel. (Hint: bring wide gear!)
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