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Best first trad leads

Original Post
lukeweiss · · St. Johnsbury, VT · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 30

NH folks - I was hoping to compile a list of great easy trad leads. I am learning trad this season, so I want to practice as much as possible at an easy grade.
I lead sport up to 5.8, so I was thinking trad leads around 5.4-5.6.
For gear - I have 7 cams from .5-3, a set of offsets, and about 12 misc. chocks and hexes.
I live about 45 min west of franconia notch, so my range will basically be the white mountains.
Any suggestions?

Scott Partan · · Avon, Colorado · Joined May 2014 · Points: 35

Hey Luke! How are you dude? Check out Echo Crag up in Franconia Notch (some good easy/moderate single pitch trad routes there). Also, there some easy trad routes scatered around Rumney too!

lukeweiss · · St. Johnsbury, VT · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 30

Scott! I am well, my friend. Started leading ice this season, and now it is finally time for some trad. I was thinking echo also. Rumney is closest, but the trad is sparse.

WyomingSummits · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

If you ever make it to Seneca Rocks WV, I think Thais or Gunsight to South Peak are both awesome first trad climbs. Gunsight is easy climbing with awesome exposure. Conn's West is an easy one as well and can be used as a descent route if you have to bail.

Zac St Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,188

Check out sundown ledge off the kancamangus... maybe specifically lost horizon area

Zac St Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,188

^ great place.

Scott Partan · · Avon, Colorado · Joined May 2014 · Points: 35

Square ledge was my first lead too!

Rubber Tramp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 5

I'll second the recommendation for Sundown; Lost Horizon. My first two trad leads were there. Nice mellow 5.4 with a short, narrow chimney full of jugs at the top. Super easy gear the whole way up.
mountainproject.com/v/rock-…
Punk rock isn't a bad 7+, getting off the platform 10-15 feet up was the hardest part for me. After that it mellows out the rest of the way to the top. I thought the "crux" according to MP was easier than the moves off the ledge, just look at your options before you jump into the traverse.
mountainproject.com/v/punk-…
"When Dad's Run Free" is ok, but no nearly as good as "Rock Garden." Decent first or second lead though.
mountainproject.com/v/when-…
Handren's North Conway guide has some good photos of the lower part of the wall for direction.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Whatever you do don't bother with kiddy crack @ cathedral! Slimy, greasy, slippery gross disgusting ankel breaker.

Thomas Stryker · · Chatham, NH · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 250

I like Lost Horizon a lot, but there are only two routes there below 5.8 I believe. If you do go there, Stilletto on the other end of the crag is a good 5.6, if a bit of a handful at that grade.

Echo is, in my opinion, the best easy to moderate trad in this area. More options below 5.8.

There is never any love for Kiddy Crack...lol... I have probably soloed the first half and downclimbed Child's Play at least fifty times. It's actually good jamming practice at off- fingers for me.

JD1984 · · Leominster, MA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 866

Elephant Head in Crawford Notch.

Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507

Rumney has some great trad if you're willing to look for it, though it may not be exactly entry level because of the wonky placements provided by the schist. Thin Air at Cathedral should be on your list. Also the run-out slabs of Whitehorse make for an incredible lead, just bring your cool head with you. Everyone I know that is learning to climb on gear goes to Echo, so maybe that is your best place to start. Pick up a set of nuts and get rolling dude!

Andrew Williams · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 625
mountainproject.com/v/coyot…

Check out the areas in Alton. Did my first trad lead at Rines Hill, Standard Route 5.7.
Mark NH · · 03053 · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

I'd recommend (off of memory - all should be on MP):

Elephants Head - The Trunk at 5.5 or so.

Artists Bluff - Two great two pitch 5.4/5 climbs - Standard route and Right Side route

Lost Horizon - as already mentioned

Echo Crag - plenty of options but unless you have real good crack technique some of the moderates are stiff for the grade. There's still a few good ones that protect well that are more face than crack.

Rumney - Def Holderness School Corner when you get up to 5.8 trad

Backside of Bretton Woods Ski Area - ride the lift and walk 20 minutes to bolted and some gear at times slab routes (Mt Oscar but none of these are in MP - BW has a guide for 3 bucks or so!)

Mark

JohnnyG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10

I did some of my first leads at Pawtuckaway. Upper cliff area. Took my first leader fall there too while my little brother belayed.

It's a good place for short climbs.

Get there now while it's pretty snowy up north and the black flies haven't come out yet down south.

-John

Zac St Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,188

Oh yeah! The backside of bretton woods for sure. Thats a perfect place. Fun, easy trad with bolted anchors and incredible views

lukeweiss · · St. Johnsbury, VT · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 30

How much is it to go to the bretton woods spot.

Zac St Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,188

Its free. During the summer (so not quite yet) Bretton woods offers free lift tickets. You just walk in and ask for a lift ticket. you'll ride up to the top and follow the trail to the base of the cliff. Ill pm you with a scan of the little write up about it because there isn't much on MP about these climbs.

lukeweiss · · St. Johnsbury, VT · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 30

sweet! thanks!

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

No love for kiddy crack or childs play.
Slippery unpleasant rock in a dark slimy buggy spot with zero exposure.
this on the other hand is a great 5.6, Excelent exposure, clean grippy rock, good protection and an Irish pub @ the base of the crag.
Off Width 5.6 Deer Leap killington VT

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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