Best first trad leads
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NH folks - I was hoping to compile a list of great easy trad leads. I am learning trad this season, so I want to practice as much as possible at an easy grade. |
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Hey Luke! How are you dude? Check out Echo Crag up in Franconia Notch (some good easy/moderate single pitch trad routes there). Also, there some easy trad routes scatered around Rumney too! |
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Scott! I am well, my friend. Started leading ice this season, and now it is finally time for some trad. I was thinking echo also. Rumney is closest, but the trad is sparse. |
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If you ever make it to Seneca Rocks WV, I think Thais or Gunsight to South Peak are both awesome first trad climbs. Gunsight is easy climbing with awesome exposure. Conn's West is an easy one as well and can be used as a descent route if you have to bail. |
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Check out sundown ledge off the kancamangus... maybe specifically lost horizon area |
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^ great place. |
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Square ledge was my first lead too! |
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I'll second the recommendation for Sundown; Lost Horizon. My first two trad leads were there. Nice mellow 5.4 with a short, narrow chimney full of jugs at the top. Super easy gear the whole way up. |
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Whatever you do don't bother with kiddy crack @ cathedral! Slimy, greasy, slippery gross disgusting ankel breaker. |
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I like Lost Horizon a lot, but there are only two routes there below 5.8 I believe. If you do go there, Stilletto on the other end of the crag is a good 5.6, if a bit of a handful at that grade. |
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Elephant Head in Crawford Notch. |
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Rumney has some great trad if you're willing to look for it, though it may not be exactly entry level because of the wonky placements provided by the schist. Thin Air at Cathedral should be on your list. Also the run-out slabs of Whitehorse make for an incredible lead, just bring your cool head with you. Everyone I know that is learning to climb on gear goes to Echo, so maybe that is your best place to start. Pick up a set of nuts and get rolling dude! |
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mountainproject.com/v/coyot…
Check out the areas in Alton. Did my first trad lead at Rines Hill, Standard Route 5.7. |
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I'd recommend (off of memory - all should be on MP): |
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I did some of my first leads at Pawtuckaway. Upper cliff area. Took my first leader fall there too while my little brother belayed. |
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Oh yeah! The backside of bretton woods for sure. Thats a perfect place. Fun, easy trad with bolted anchors and incredible views |
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How much is it to go to the bretton woods spot. |
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Its free. During the summer (so not quite yet) Bretton woods offers free lift tickets. You just walk in and ask for a lift ticket. you'll ride up to the top and follow the trail to the base of the cliff. Ill pm you with a scan of the little write up about it because there isn't much on MP about these climbs. |
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sweet! thanks! |
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