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Jon Ruland
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Feb 23, 2015
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Tucson, AZ
· Joined May 2007
· Points: 646
after getting pretty much completely shut down on abracadaver recently, i thought i'd head down to joshua tree this weekend to hone my wide technique. i found this thread on essentially the same topic and 3 posts down roger lists a ton of offwidths complete with grade sorting, etc, which is very helpful. however, since i only have the weekend and i'm not sure when i'll be back i was wondering if someone could tell me where the highest density of offwidths are in the 5.7-5.9 range (maybe even low 10, but that's probably pushing it for me). does anyone have any suggestions?
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Todd Gordon
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Feb 23, 2015
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Joshua Tree, CA
· Joined Nov 2006
· Points: 10,796
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Will S
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Feb 23, 2015
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Joshua Tree
· Joined Nov 2006
· Points: 1,061
Hey Jon, It's difficult to find any real concentration of routes in JT at grades you want in any style, we tend to run around crag to crag, getting in maybe 2-5 pitches before relocating. Just part of the game here whether for finger cracks, wide, whatever...about the only thing with concentrations all over are grainy slabs. Let me see if I can at least give some groups by area that aren't too spread out. IME, your best bet is going to be the Hidden Valley Campground/Outback area. 1. Hidden Valley CG area/Outback area West Chimney 5.4 Bat Crack 5.5 Secovar 5.5 Mikes Books p2 5.6 The Flake 5.8+ Orphan 5.9 Wise Crack 5.9 The Damper 5.9 Looney Tunes 5.9 Frostline 10a Waterchute 10b 2. Real Hidden Valley: Championship Wrestling (~5.8+ or 5.9, overrated at 10a) The Good, Bad, and Ugly (~10a) Flared Bare (~10a/b...link it to the upper part of Great White buffalo for a long and cool pitch) Where Janitors Dare 5.7 Fisticuffs 10b Tumbling Rainbow 5.9 And closeby Real Hidden Valley, really sort of in it but approached a little different, on the backside of the Foundry (foundry is the big block up and above/behind the JBMFP bouldering area): Six Pack Crack 10b Jumar of Flesh 9 those two are literally 8' apart. And also closeby these: Couldn't Wait 10a 3. Indian Cove: Duchess Right 5.7+ Date Queen 5.8 Linda's Crack 5.2 (if you aren't a waif, it's a bit harder than that) Dum Roodle 5.easy Nickel Slots 5.4? 4. Split Rocks area One Armed Giant 10dR Dolphin 5.7 Modern Warfare 10a Kamikaze 10c (MW and Kami are about 20' apart and could probably TR) Right On on Saddle Rock has a fair amount of wide style climbing on it, at about 5.6, multi pitch, really good route for the grade. Just beware of n00b clusterfux. Probably THE best single pitch of moderate wide climbing in all of JT is High Strung, mountainproject.com/v/high-… It's out in the Wonderland (not too far in there, not like hiking out to Astrodomes or Big Horn Mating Grotto). Has a move of 5.9 fingers down low,t then a continuous splitter that widens as you go, mostly in the 4"-5" range, around 5.7+. It's fantastic!! See if I can link a pic of High Strung (left side of the pic, there's a climber on it):
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Jon Ruland
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Feb 23, 2015
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Tucson, AZ
· Joined May 2007
· Points: 646
ooooo cooool thanks guys! will it looks like you put a lot of effort into that post. hopefully this will serve as a future reference for others like me who are out for a good wide thrash! High Strung looks amazing.
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lucander
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Feb 24, 2015
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Stone Ridge, NY
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 260
Haha. I thought Dolphin (.7) felt harder than Bird of Fire (.10-) and Rites of Passage (.9), all withing 30 feet of each other. If you're getting wide, Bambi Meets Godzilla (.8++) has a mighty reputation.
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Guy Keesee
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Feb 24, 2015
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Moorpark, CA
· Joined Mar 2008
· Points: 349
Darn Will- thats quite a list..... Jon if you go to YouTube and search "Yafer Hi-strung josha tree" you can find a Video from about 5 years ago. .... I would toss in a link, but some how the MP-video linking deal will not work to well on my work computer..... have fun....if you really want a real off with ..... go up to Bishop, Pine creek and go find Pratts Crack. Or go to BALCH FLAKE over Fresno ways.
Oh yea one more thing.... if you go to the LINK russ listed a few post up.... You might just get tagged by some weird folks, and contacted... so use at your own risk...
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Jon Ruland
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Feb 24, 2015
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Tucson, AZ
· Joined May 2007
· Points: 646
Guy Keesee wrote:Oh yea one more thing.... if you go to the LINK russ listed a few post up.... You might just get tagged by some weird folks, and contacted... so use at your own risk... lol, awesome.
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Matt Kuehl
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Feb 24, 2015
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Las Vegas
· Joined Nov 2010
· Points: 1,712
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Jon Ruland
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Feb 24, 2015
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Tucson, AZ
· Joined May 2007
· Points: 646
Oh shit that looks cool. Plus I love lord of the rings references.
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Sean G
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Feb 24, 2015
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Indiana
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 575
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Trad Princess
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Feb 24, 2015
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Not That Into Climbing
· Joined Jan 2012
· Points: 1,175
Awesome thread, thanks for the info gents!
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Lzpup Brewster
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Apr 13, 2015
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North Bend, Wa
· Joined Nov 2011
· Points: 40
Southwest passage 5.8 on the roadside of intersection rock was fun; if your into that kinda thing :)
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/southwest-passage/105723364
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Jon Ruland
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Apr 14, 2015
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Tucson, AZ
· Joined May 2007
· Points: 646
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Bill Flaherty
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Mar 4, 2016
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San Diego, CA
· Joined Oct 2013
· Points: 144
For beginner offwidth leads: Nectar is a good 5.4 over on Isle in the Sky, right by Dolphin. It has some hand jams and takes smaller gear if you go deeper in it. Hhecht (5.6) on Locomotion Rock, RHV gradually goes from hands to offwidth and back down to hands.
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Fat Dad
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Mar 6, 2016
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Los Angeles, CA
· Joined Nov 2007
· Points: 60
Not sure if someone mentioned this upthread yet, but Filch (5.6) at Trashcan Rock is really convenient. Five feet from your parked car.
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FrankPS
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Mar 6, 2016
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Atascadero, CA
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 276
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