Creek Anchors
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Hey guys, |
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Blockhead @ Public Service. Hong bolt , old nuts. |
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Unknown 5.10 left of Idaho Flake @ 2nd Meat Wall. I think it's currently got a pin, a nut and some tat as an anchor. I have some time in April and would be psyched to help with out with anchor replacement. |
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Mantel Illness @ Scarface. |
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Slice and Dice on Way Rambo is not terrible. But it is a relatively popular route so it could stand some improvement in the near future. I havent done much anchor replacing but I spend a lot of time in IC and would love to help contribute if possible! |
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Sweet thanks guys! Shep if you see a stickered gold previa out there swing on by! |
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The anchors on Big Guy on Scarface were spinning big time last I was up there. |
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Sam Feuerborn wrote:Hey guys, Now that the season is upon us I'm just looking to compile a list of Creek routes that could use an anchor update. If you would be so kind as to dredge up memories of what routes might need some attention and what kind of hardware they need that would be rad! Thanks, Sam1st pitch anchor at the top of "unknown 2 pitch route left of 3 fools" on Reservoir wall is a drilled angle and an old nut with a bunch of tat. |
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kennoyce wrote: 1st pitch anchor at the top of "unknown 2 pitch route left of 3 fools" on Reservoir wall is a drilled angle and an old nut with a bunch of tat.Glad to see that stuck out in your mind as much as it did mine! Jive Crack ( mountainproject.com/v/jive-…) on Optimator is a one bolt and one drilled piton anchor. |
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Will do. Sam, where are you usually posted up out there? Shoot me a PM if you need hardware and I would love to contribute! |
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The anchors for Rowdy are shared with the unknown OW on the right. It could really use its own set (and maybe a couple of those nice loose death blocks tossed off). The anchors for the unknown OW are one good chain anchor and tat with a biner. |
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Samurai Loving has a homemade bent aluminum hanger and an old thin Leeper hanger. |
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Thanks guys! If you're wanting to contribute, consider donating to the ASCA, they're super awesome folks and have helped out a ton with hardware! |
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Sam - Cowch Potato at Sacred Cow and the first pitch anchors of Overlook at Reservoir had decent looking bolts but old webbing and biners. |
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The route Sacred Cow definitely would be a good candidate. It currently has a Hong bolt and one not that great looking other bolt equalized with tat and 4 biners. |
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Sesh One Cooking at 2nd Meat has a drilled angle and a bandito aluminum hanger. Also - The Switch on the right side of the 2nd Meat could use a new bolt. |
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My recollection from last fall is that the higher Dos Hermanos anchor was pretty uninspiring. Looks like many attempts have been had up there to replace them. Any thoughts about moving to glue-ins? |
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Aye, the dos hermanos anchors seem to get hammered. They get sloppy, someone fixes em, they get sloppy again. Super good route that gets climbed a ton. If they don't get done this spring I'll hit em up this fall. |
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The "Unnamed 5.10" warmup (right facing corner, about 115' in length) at Cat Wall. It's way popular and has nasty tat strung on two drilled pins, IIRC. |
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Jolly rancher- pistol whipped wall |
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As of about 3 weeks ago, the lower of the two rap bolts on the "main" (Southwest? The one everyone goes to first, with the bolt above the mantle) summit of South Sixshooter is a little loose in its hole. I didn't try to pull it out. I'm sorry to say that I don't know enough about bolts to know whether it just needs to be tightened or whether it needs to be re-drilled. I did note that the hanger had ground its way into the rock about 1/8". |