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help a kiddo choose protection

Trondheim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35
FrankPS wrote: For a Norwegian 14-year old, you speak very good gutter English.
Don't you believe im Norwegian? I live in the middle of Norway, in Trondheim.
Im 14 years old and I turn 15 in october. why won't you guys believe me?
Trondheim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35
20 kN wrote: There are plenty of scenarios where offsets wont work well. I have been using regular nuts for nearly 8 years and aside from routes that have pin scars I have never found myself saying "shit, if only I had offsets here. Nothing else works!"
What nuts do you use? What cams will you bring if to climb unknown granite?
Trondheim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35
FrankPS wrote: For a Norwegian 14-year old, you speak very good gutter English.
And I climb harder routes than you btw
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Fabian Kolbergsrud Espeland wrote: And I climb harder routes than you btw
You definitely sound like a 14-year old. I believe you.
Robert Murner · · Ga · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 65

^ haha ROFL

lozo bozo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 30
Fabian Kolbergsrud Espeland wrote: And I climb harder routes than you btw
hahahahahhah! ahh oh man
Dylan Pike · · Knoxville, TN · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 488
Fabian Kolbergsrud Espeland wrote: Im not a troll. Just wondering what veterans would bring if to climb granite.
A boombox.

Jeff Johnston · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 110
Fabian Kolbergsrud Espeland wrote: No goddamit.
Fabian Kolbergsrud Espeland wrote: And I climb harder routes than you btw
HA HA HA Troll or no troll, I like this kid.

anyway,

Go for a set of BD C4s .75 - 4, Augment with Metlious TCU at the smaller end of the scale, that what has been working for me. I dont know anything about the new x4s yet, it would be worth checking them out.
I like the DMM peanuts and offset stoppers, but my area had many flaring cracks. Check those out and see what you think.
Jack C · · Green River, UT · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 325

For what it's worth I prefer Wild Country nuts to BD. Can't tell you why though. x4's are dandy. I find myself placing them more than any other CU. Maybe I have weird route preferences but they come in handy. And +1 on the tricams. I definitely place the pink more than any other piece of gear.

Joe Crawford · · Truckee, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 105

1 set of Metolius Mastercams 00-4
1 set of BD x4 0.1-0.5
2 sets of BD C4 .75-3
1 set of BD C4 4-5
1 set of DMM Offset Nuts
1 set of DMM Peanuts

That's about what I climb with these days and I pretty much only climb on granite. Some on here will say to sub the Mastercams for Totem Basics or Fixe Aliens, but that's all personal preference. Happy clamboring.

Cliffhanger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 5

Grapple hooks are all the rage nowadays

Trondheim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35
Dylan Pike wrote: A boombox.
Good idea. Will definitely bring one.
Trondheim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35
JoeCrawford wrote:1 set of Metolius Mastercams 00-4 1 set of BD x4 0.1-0.5 2 sets of BD C4 .75-3 1 set of BD C4 4-5 1 set of DMM Offset Nuts 1 set of DMM Peanuts That's about what I climb with these days and I pretty much only climb on granite. Some on here will say to sub the Mastercams for Totem Basics or Fixe Aliens, but that's all personal preference. Happy clamboring.
Thank you. That was really helpful.
Trondheim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35
FrankPS wrote: You definitely sound like a 14-year old. I believe you.
I may sound like a 14 year old but then again. What do you have to say when a teen climbs harder than you?
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Fabian Kolbergsrud Espeland wrote: I may sound like a 14 year old but then again. What do you have to say when a teen climbs harder than you?
I say, "Good for you." From where I stand, it doesn't matter. And it doesn't make you a better person. Or more a knowledgeable or experienced climber. Someday, you'll grow up and realize it's not competitive and there will be people that climb harder than you. And it doesn't matter.

But I wish you luck. In your climbing and maturing!
Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507
Fabian Kolbergsrud Espeland wrote: I may sound like a 14 year old but then again. What do you have to say when a teen climbs harder than you?
I'd say climbing isn't even about climbing hard, and you're naive to think it is.

Get a set of BD C4's from .3 to 3, a set of BD nuts, and a bunch of extendable draws. After that you should be able to lead almost anything but the splitterest cracks. You're going to find that you want at least doubles of everything, and that having enough gear is never enough. You'll also want to get some weird gear for those odd placements where cams and nuts don't work. Make sure when you're working on the next crazy 5.13 R route you have some ball nuts to show that you're a real badass hardman.

Good luck.
Bill M · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 317

My wife was at the gym and asked a friend's daughter, who was maybe 8 or 9, if the route she had just climbed was a good route, she replied, "yes, but your not good enough to climb it." The truth told only like a child can say it.

Justin Brunson · · Tacoma WA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 2,266

If I had that kind of money I'd get another set of original totems. Best all-around cam on the market.

grampa potate · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 5

Do you even know how to place pro?
Shiny new gear + no experience = accident waiting to happen.

Trondheim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35
grampa potate wrote:Do you even know how to place pro? Shiny new gear + no experience = accident waiting to happen.
Yes I have experience. Climbed since I was 10.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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