Dixie crackheads: Best crack climbs in the South?
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Great lists folks! Got some crack climbin to do fosho! Can't wait to break into the 11 and 12 range but there is a lot of classics ten and under as well |
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T Wall has lots of them (Crackattack and Blood on the Rocks haven't been mentioned), but it's not the center of the universe. Some worthy semi-obscurities: |
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Agreed about Twall, Jim. I am not climbing at the level yet, but I wonder if Dixie Reality at Rumbling Bald will make the list someday with more traffic. It's definitely got the aesthetics! |
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A lot of the already mentioned ones are classics. Here a few others from various areas that haven't been mentioned yet. |
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Here's an obscure one: |
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Or how about the Super Crack of Linville: |
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Be Esperanza... where the hell is that?! |
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WP, didn't we once have plans to climb that you bailed on? And now you want beta... typical. |
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P1) of Refelections (SC) |
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Be Esperanza wrote:WP, didn't we once have plans to climb that you bailed on? And now you want beta... typical.ZING! Oh, and that roof looks badass. Good to see some shoutouts to Looking Glass's north side. Cornflake, Safari Jive, pitch one of Invisible Airwaves, and the Womb are all badass routes. That said, for PURE crack climbs splitters that are laser cut up featureless walls, which have cruxes that require pure jamming as opposed to laybacking, stemming, or face cruxes are pretty rare in the Southeast. Greatest Show on Earth and Genocide at the NRG, Mrs. Socrates at T-Wall, All That Glitters at the RRG, and even the aforementioned Cornflake Crack at LG are all spectacular, mega-classic climbs, but they're NOT pure crack climbs by this definition. Hell, I'd even argue that the NRG's "Chasing the Wind," which is one of the best pitchs of 5.11 I've ever done, is not a pure crack climb; even though it follows a beautiful crack, you're actually climbing little solution pockets inside the crack that are more like mini-jugs than real jamming constrictions. Here's a shortlist of the best pure splitters I'm familiar with in the Southeast. Not mentioning anything from Old Rag, VA, just because I've never been there. NRG: Luv Nothing (5.120 New Yosemite (5.9) Indian Summer (5.10) Black Crack (5.12) RRG: Welcome to Ol Kentuck (5.13) Defibrillator (original, not direct start, 5.11) Kool Aid (5.11) Crack Attack (5.9+) Rumbling Bald: Shredded Wheat (5.11) T-wall: Golden Locks (5.8) Fingerlocking Good (the crux is just how the name describes, but is super short, 5.10) |
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Yeah +1 on Pnelsons comment about pure cracks. Although I've found some great sections of hands, fingers and fists here in the South. I rarely find the need to foot jam and consistently hand and foot jam for a long distance. Usually foot face holds provide rests or easier crack climbing. Its still really fun stuff, can't complain, I'm having a blast. Just not pure splitters like I've seen in Yosemite or the Needles of CA. But y'all got it good down here, the climbs are steep and less slabby than cracks I've been on in CA. Haven't been to the Creek yet so no comparisons there. Climb on! |
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Just back from Rumbling Bald and I really enjoyed Frosted Flakes. Great #3 size hand jams & R foot jamming. Sustained and pumpy. |
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I stood beneath Crack Attack at RRG in the pouring rain and still have yet to climb it, but it has to be one of the best splitter cracks anywhere in the South. |
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Agreed on the purity or lack thereof of cracks in the South (not that I am experienced climbing elsewhere, but hey, I see things)- still though, love what we do got. |
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Liposuctor at clear creek in the obed (a rare 130 foot pure splitter with off width to hands to fingers on overhanging face). tons of lines at T-wall. many lines on north face of looking glass. several lines at rumbling bald. some hidden gems in Big South Fork and Sequatchie Valley. many lines at Sunset Park. many lines on endless wall. avoid red river. rock quality terrible for trad imo. seems like bama has some hidden gems as well. |
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Love "straight gas crack" at shortoff short n stout crack i'm shamlessly plugging because its sick the womb on looking glass p2 of T&B at Looking Glass cornflake crack @ looking glass Bloody crack @ looking glass p1 invisible air waves @ looking glass p1 Reflections p2-3 of groover at laurel knob p2-3 double dihedral p2 rattle snake crack @ johns rock p1 rattle snake crack @ linville gorge amp p1 Carbo man @ looking glass p1 vomiting verglass @ cedar rock p1 dandy line @ cedar rock
supercrack @ shortoff |
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Nice second life to this thread. After scrolling through, I haven’t seen any mention of Seneca Rocks. Crack of Dawn (10a), Climb and Punishment (8+), Dirty Old Man (6) to name a few top shelf routes. |
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Octopod palace at Twall (no one does it but it's tits), Of Vice in men or BGP at Twall, did someone mention Finger locking good? Hungry for Heaven, crack attack, people's express, seal test, Time takes a cigarette, day's work, cake walk, rape conducive (one of the few route names that really bothers me), precious orr, golden gloves, centerfold, celestial mechanics (it's rare that it's dry and it is now), fists of fury, air raid, air born, Hookers and blow, electric ambiance, all the colors of love (F that crux |
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Doug Jones wrote: Trad at the Red is some of my favorite on the east coast. Be ready for desert quality rock but probably a little better. As people don't stop climbing after it rains and the place isn't trashed yet. I say climb it at the Red and enjoy a break from the crowds. Just be conservative if you're a novice gear leader. |
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Tim M wrote: West Virginia isn't really the south. As a matter of fact that's why there's a West Virginia to begin with. I need to make it to Seneca |