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Tips for setting outdoor boulder problems

Original Post
Luke Utley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 15

Hey everyone,
I recently got into climbing this year, and it just so happens that I live next to a sandstone rock quarry (know the owner, and have permission). I was wondering what kind of tips you all have for setting boulder problems or routes outdoors?

Doug S · · W Pa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55

Hey Luke
First, maybe a little more info would help...
Are you talking about simply climbing and developing some routes?
To me, saying "setting boulder problems outdoors" sounds like you're considering chipping some holds (forming them with a chisel), which would be fine in a private quarry where you have permission, but might be frowned upon in other circumstances. (Google "Ivan Greene")
Are you talking about putting up some bolt lines? If so, how do you estimate the rock quality? Will it hold a bolt or is it too soft?

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
Luke Utley wrote:Hey everyone, I recently got into climbing this year, and it just so happens that I live next to a sandstone rock quarry (know the owner, and have permission). I was wondering what kind of tips you all have for setting boulder problems or routes outdoors?
You don't "set" routes or problems outside, that is what is done in a gym. Outside you establish or develop. The first step is to find someone who is a local and already knows how to do it, then ask them to teach you. This isn't something that can be learned on the internet (or at least it shouldn't be).
Brian Prince · · reno · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 2,727

What you have is an ideal situation to create some splitters. Buy a concrete saw off of craigslist and get to work.

Luke Utley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 15

My bad! Yes I'm just trying to look for ways to establish routes on the already existing wall face.
Maybe later in the summer I'll look into splitting! If so, tips for that as well?
For now no sport climbing though.

mustardtiger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 20

Walk up to the boulder and find a way to get to the top. That's your first v0 more then likely. Then look for smaller holds that are farther apart and the difficulty goes up. It's not hard to make boulder problems but it's very hard to make good boulder problems. Eventually you will find out which group of holds and moves are the most fun and you will have yourself a golden problem.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
Brian Prince wrote:What you have is an ideal situation to create some splitters. Buy a concrete saw off of craigslist and get to work.
This was done at Bellefonte Quarry in Pennsylvania, an 11 finger crack. Heard that the result wasn't too satisfying, but I never got on the route. Called "Manufractured" IIRC.
Rob Gordon · · Hollywood, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 115

I hate this thread already.

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911

drill holes and then chip pockets out of them, epoxy small rocks onto the wall, chisel some crimpers, have fun, be creative

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

I guess the best tip is that after a half hour trying to climb in a quarry you are thinking to yourself, "Yeah, this is bullshit" then that should be your guide for future development.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
mustardtiger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 20

Have you considered maybe dry tooling these new boulders?

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
mustardtiger wrote:Have you considered maybe dry tooling these new boulders?
I'm gonna say...no.

Maybe later in the summer I'll look into splitting! If so, tips for that as well?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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