No beer here, just terrible leaders.

Nope, not a political discussion. This is a rant about slow and weak leaders(as in climbing).

1) Doing the ritualistic pantomime routine of the route moves for what seems like hours while their belayer is sitting, getting cold, ready to belay, ya know.
2) Taking selfies while on lead, confusing the belayer about what the heck is going on.
3) Having temper tantrums (sobbing, kicking the wall, spewing profanities) each time they flail.
4) Embarrassing the belayer by yelling out for "everyone to shut up" .
5) Taking a piss on the wall on lead as their belayer is just under them.
6) Dressing ridiculously and using an excuse "those are my send pants".
7) Taking forever to lead. Anything. Peiod.

Edit: yes, a leader urinated right on top of my head. It sucked.

I've suffered through 3, 4, and 7. You've had a leader hanging to urinate right over you?!

And you didn't cut the rope?

Seems like you climb with some quality people.

#8 - leaders who don't yell "off belay/secure" even though they go to the top of the pitch and set up the anchor 10 minutes ago (this is usually done while out of sight of the second)
#8a - leaders who don't respond to any calls to find out what's going on, not because they are at a crux move, but because they are eating/drinking
#9 - leaders who, after doing #8, then yell at their second to hurry up when they're trying to get a quick drink before starting up
#10 - leaders who manage the rope like crap (especially on multi pitch), and then leave their second with a rats nest to deal with once they go back on lead

Member since today, and gettin right after it!?

#11 - leaders who drop more pro than they place (usually when sharing a rack)

since this is a bitch and moan fest...

How about anyone who yells "Off Belay" when they really mean "At the anchors" or "I'm safe". Only to yell "OK ready to lower" less than two minutes later.

If you intend to lower, don't call off belay.

Farmer John wrote: yes, a leader urinated right on top of my head.

I enjoy the ice leaders who grunt and yell like a boulderer!

how about leaders in the gym who are apparently allergic to wearing shirts?

its a gym...

not the crag...

put a shirt on...

im speaking of the male variety of course

wonderwoman wrote:Leaders who berate their belayers when they are frustrated. It's not your belayer's fault that you aren't strong enough, pal. Get some technique! ;)

Grow a set

wonderwoman wrote: Haha! Should I take that one personally! If so, get stronger, Eric!

curt86iroc wrote:how about leaders in the gym who are apparently allergic to wearing shirts? its a gym... not the crag... put a shirt on...

Tom Sherman wrote:since this is a bitch and moan fest... How about anyone who yells "Off Belay" when they really mean "At the anchors" or "I'm safe". Only to yell "OK ready to lower" less than two minutes later. If you intend to lower, don't call off belay.

I'm guilty of 3 at every crux and 7.

to solve these matters, I don't climb with people vastly better than myself. This way they are usually guilty of 3 and 7, and we both just get on with it. It's amazing how tolerant you are when you will be in the same situation next lead.

The other stuff, usually not an issue.

My advice, stop climbing with shitty climbers and noobs.

I do hate when people get to an anchor or to a ledge big enough to put a 10 man tent on and refuse to call off belay till they have a complete anchor and the ropes through the ATC in guide mode. Really onces you're secure please, please let me do what I need to do.

Your leader asks for beta. He continues to struggle through the next couple of moves. You offer him some beta, and he mumbles "stfu" under his breath HA!

Climbing friends,

If you would be liking everyone at the gym of climbing rocks of plastic to know how much of a badass you are, or if you would like to attract the climbing girlfriend, you must not only remove your shirt in the gym, but also be certain to leave some unnecessary trad gear on your harness such as a nut tool. I find this is an excellent tip to be proving to everyone that I do in fact do the climbing on the outdoor climbing rocks, and am, in fact, a badass.

Also do not forget to do the screaming at crux of indoor climbing rocks route.

#3 is why I can't watch any videos of Ondra climbing. It just annoys the heck out of me.

I mean, props for the guy for being a bajillion times more dedicated to climbing than me and being one of the best in the world, but I'll choose not to watch his videos.

tim wrote:Member since today, and gettin right after it!?