Broken Hold Lev 29 - Reattachment question

This is basically vandalism through ignorance.

It is starting to become clear to me how developers are able to sell a plot of land, full of sand, with no guaranteed or feasible water usage plan, in a place where summer temps not only reach well over 100F, but stays that way for 25% of the year. The opportunity and ease in which to troll the Las Vegas climbing community must equate to selling swamp land in Florida to mid westerners during the winter.

I was hoping to get a good glue recommendation from this thread....

(( sad trombone ))

It was an accident and it's just a piece of rock.

FrankPS wrote:It's just a piece of rock.

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Thank you, you know who you are, for the e-mails of support. Especially this one:

MP User Not To Be Named wrote:Hello, Andre. I am a local and here to tell you, that you are not dumb for posing this question, regardless of what these other idiots post. In fact, a large percentage of the single pitch sport climb "classics" in Red Rock have holds glued back on to them or have been glued prophylactically to prevent being destroyed forever. Even though it is a big no no for the BLM, locals have been doing it as long as climbing has been around, and, whether most people realize it or not, just about every single steep limestone crag in the world is being kept climbable because of glue. We (those who reinforce routes) use Sikadur 31, which is an extremely high strength, two part epoxy. It is very expensive and very difficult to apply, but it is a long term solution. It is grey, however, so you need to spray it with matte finish spray paint.

The vitriol is not appreciated.

Andre H. wrote:Thank you, you know who you are, for the e-mails of support. Especially this one: The vitriol is not appreciated.

I stand by what I posted. I may not live in Vegas proper but I have a history with Red Rocks.
Travel lightly and give the stone a chance to dry. Just stay off it till it is ready .

phil broscovak wrote:Where to start, where to start. OK how about here, this really pisses me off! You blow into town and immediately let your ego, arrogance and ignorance send you on an ill advised and late in the day failure on the super classic L29. What ever you do DO NOT go glue the fang back. If you want to do the right thing wait for the stone to dry and go retrieve the fang, take it into Desert Rock Sport, explain and beg for forgiveness. To claim and blame "chossiness" or to trust in your friends assessment of dry feeling crimps is assinine at best. Either talk to the locals about wet rock or go back to your local playground! The desert environment for all it's harshness is remarkably fragile. Oh and please stay the hell away from any of my routes!

If this is a troll, you you have a petty life. If this is for real let the experienced locals decide through consensus how to best deal with this completely avoidable act of vandalism.

Thank you, you know who you are, for the e-mails of support. Especially this one:

MP User Not To Be Named wrote:
Hello, Andre. I am a local and here to tell you, that you are not dumb for posing this question, regardless of what these other idiots post. In fact, a large percentage of the single pitch sport climb "classics" in Red Rock have holds glued back on to them or have been glued prophylactically to prevent being destroyed forever. Even though it is a big no no for the BLM, locals have been doing it as long as climbing has been around, and, whether most people realize it or not, just about every single steep limestone crag in the world is being kept climbable because of glue. We (those who reinforce routes) use Sikadur 31, which is an extremely high strength, two part epoxy. It is very expensive and very difficult to apply, but it is a long term solution. It is grey, however, so you need to spray it with matte finish spray paint.

The vitriol is not appreciated.

+1 for using sika products for anything! 4 local distributors:

Smalley and Company
Construction Sealants and Supply
White Cap
Border Construction Products

Please go out and buy some Sika Today

If ya go to Const. Sealants & Supplies... say hi to Vern&Fran for me.... :)))

Stone Nude wrote:Jesus Christ, Doug. Really?

I thought there should be something useful that comes from this troll thread.

Bryan Manning wrote:If ya go to Const. Sealants & Supplies... say hi to Vern&Fran for me.... :)))

I'll say hi to them for you!

Is it just delightful irony when the most personally deplorable people supposedly have the most lofty ethics?

Glue (epoxy) isn't a BFD. In a perfect world, it would all hold together naturally, never need cleaning, protect with a standard rack, priests wouldn't molest little boys, and everybody would play by the same Boy Scouts of America issued rule book of climbing.

Many of the world best routes have glue holding them together. Next time glue it back on and don't ask permission first. Do a good enough job that no one can tell, and the community of haters will pull down on that shiz clueless as ever.

Sir chuffs alot wrote:Many of the world best routes have glue holding them together. Next time glue it back on and don't ask permission first. Do a good enough job that no one can tell, and the community of haters will pull down on that shiz clueless as ever.

Not sure why the OP didn't just do what he did (glue it back on) without announcing it on MP. Pretty much asking for a s**t storm.
Definition of a troll?

Sir chuffs alot wrote:Many of the world best routes have glue holding them together. Next time glue it back on and don't ask permission first. Do a good enough job that no one can tell, and the community of haters will pull down on that shiz clueless as ever.

Not sure he really asked for permission. Asked what glue to use, got lots of people worked up and glued it back on the next day anyway.

I don't really care about a broken hold and whether or not someone glues it, but seems the whole point of this thread was to get people upset (i.e. trolling). Amazing how worked people will get over a broken handhold.

Colonel Mustard wrote:Is it just delightful irony when the most personally deplorable people supposedly have the most lofty ethics? .

LOL! That's exactly what I was about to post. Great minds.



that's my pastry Hillis dont eat it what you already ate it?!?!

So was the hold glued or not?