Climber nearing the top of the Dihedral. I've never climbed this with anyone who thought it was less than solid 5.9. They often wanted to add an "R" rating due to the difficulty of protecting the wide cracks at the top.

All Locations > Washington > Okanogan > McLoughlin Canyon (To…

Climber nearing the top of the Dihedral. I've never climbed this with anyone who thought it was less than solid 5.9. They often wanted to add an "R" rating due to the difficulty of protecting the wide cracks at the top.

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One of the 465 routes established without "leaving a trace."

Lada enjoying the view of MC from the west slope of Chewiliken Creek Canyon

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Phil Gleason

Mar 6, 2015

“Climber nearing the top of the Dihedral. I've never climbed this with anyone who thought it was less than solid 5.9. They often wanted to add an "R" rating due to the difficulty of protecting the wide cracks at the top.”

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Nearby Photos

State map of public property boundaries, showing McLoughlin Canyon and Chewiliken Creek Crags; private lands in white, federal (BLM) in orange and state (DNR) in pink and (DFW) in green.

Mtn Sheep family in McLoughlin Canyon

McLoughlin Ice in mid January 2013.

climbing MC ice in 2017

Looking west towards Whitestone from the canyon rim

View to the SW from the canyon rim.

The gorgeous cliffs to the north - currently private and unclimbable, but they would make a great purchase by a coalition of climbers....hint hint...

MC - public land boundaries (from OK County Assessor's map)

McLoughlin Canyon Main/South Canyon map.

McLoughlin Canyon - The Big Picture

Going for the committing moves after turning the overhang. Just one of the 465 routes done...

Local reminder....

Please respect and preserve the habitat for the wildlife.

MC from the south (west slope of Chewiliken Creek Crag).

BLM signage at trailhead/parking area.

McLoughlin ice early February 2017

South Canyon in early November

Roadside sign about Canyon's history (with the East Face of Main Canyon behind).

South Buttress and Main Canyon (with Corral Wall and North Canyon beyond)

Main wall during January 2018 snow storm

Please respect and preserve the habitat for the wildlife.

Corral Rock (north of the road, but on BLM land

Winter climbing in short sleeves; climber working one of the new hard sport routes on the Wall of Cracks.

McLoughlin Ice - January 2013

View up-canyon from the top of Blazing Saddles on the Sundance Wall.

In an attempt to preserve some degree of historical accuracy, I submit this map with the names the pioneer climbers of the 1980's gave to these craggy walls.

South Canyon (left) and South Buttress of the Main Canyon (right) from the south

County road with a vehicle at the south parking pullout, and the cliffs to the North.

Setting up a TR on one of the 465 routes done "without leaving a trace."

Northern Crag

Baby rattler in the trail near the base of the "Honeycomb Wall" crag at the end of September.

View of the South Buttress from the top of "Honeycomb Wall".

"The Dihedral", THE classic corner crack.

MC from the south

A difficult climb. An overhanging fingertip lie back (hard to protect) is followed by loose blocks in the chimney. Not recommended if you only want to do "safe" rock climbs.

Please respect and preserve the habitat for the wildlife.

S by SE Wall

One of the 465 routes established without "leaving a trace."

Climber nearing the top of the Dihedral. I've never climbed this with anyone who thought it was less than solid 5.9. They often wanted to add an "R" rating due to the difficulty of protecting the wide cracks at the top.

Lada enjoying the view of MC from the west slope of Chewiliken Creek Canyon

McLoughlin Canyon. View north from the Main Canyon (BLM parking just north of the road, private lands beyond that)

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