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pulley injury? cancel trip?

Original Post
jason Wisniewski95 · · Salt Lake City · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

I was climbing and grabbed an awkward hold while bouldering and I felt a pop in my finger but it wasn't an audible "pop". I immediately stopped climbing.

From what I have read around it looks like it could be an A2 pulley injury considering it feels like the right area on my ring finger and it hurts to push down with that finger (I could be very wrong but thats my best guess). There is no swelling. It could be very minor, I'm not sure, I have never had a finger injury from climbing before.

My biggest concern is that I was planning on going to Yosemite in a week and a half and was wondering if I should cancel that trip and just let it heal? Or go on the trip? Some people say to rest it for at least 45 days others say they can go moderate crack climbing while it's healing. What do you think?

Sam Lightner, Jr. · · Lander, WY · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,732

It is likely the A2 and it is likely a cat 1 strain and not a full rupture. Dr. Schoeffl's standard for this is 4 weeks of rest with lots of ice, then climbing again with it taped for a few months. He is the top guy in the world for this. Without taking at least a few weeks off, you will have it heal but it will not heal really well. It will be more likely to blow out in the future. If I were you, I'd cancel so I can climb in the spring, summer and fall.

For what its worth, i am doing the editing on the 3rd edition of One Move Too Many right now... came to MP to take a break. I literally just did that chapter last night. This book will cover far more injuries and have the absolute latest studies... it will be really good. Look for it this summer.

jason Wisniewski95 · · Salt Lake City · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

thank you for the advice! Yeah I was afraid of that, at least I' planning a trip in the summer so I won't be missing out completely...
Do you think I could still do weighted chin ups while I'm waiting for it to heal?

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

Rest. You will regret not healing properly every time you pull on that finger and it hurts, or worse, re-injures...REST!

Sam Lightner, Jr. · · Lander, WY · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,732

I don't think you should do weighted chinups, period, but that is a different chapter!

Rest. Four weeks seems like forever when you are 25, but it is a small price to have paid when you are still dealing with this at 45. You trained hard all winter... you won't lose it all in a few weeks. Just rest and go into the spring with a healthy A2. Also, Yosemite will still be there in another year and another 10 years.

Patrick Mulligan · · Reno, NV · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 995

Yosemite sure has a lot of options. Just climb stuff like this where you won't be pulling on that finger much (ala Glassberg): vimeo.com/116918309

jason Wisniewski95 · · Salt Lake City · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

I did some light bouldering and crack climbing at the gym tonight. I taped my finger and it didn't hurt so I'm going to see how it feels tomorrow and if it hurts worse tomorrow I'm going to call the trip. (probably not advised but I need to figure out if I'm going or not by tomorrow)

Hoff Mann · · Knoxville, TN · Joined May 2008 · Points: 50

I've had two prior pulley tears in my life, tape allowed me to climb but prolonged the healing process to upwards of a year for both. I'm nursing yet another pulley tear right now (thought I learned my lesson but then built a 45 degree climbing wall in my garage, equipped it with crimps, had a few beers, hopped on without warming up, and then...audible "pop!"). This one, however, I've followed a protocol of no climbing, ice, warm water and massage (increase blood flow) for 4 weeks and it's feeling pretty good. Will give it a few more before hitting anything too intense.

Rest it, you'll be pulling down way hard way sooner if you do.

Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

Seems like everyone's said this but sadly you should rest it.....I've had a number of finger injuries over the last 17 years and I never rest them, and it always take's forever to heal!

Daniel Winder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 101

Friction slab, offwidth, handcrack, long easies, aid, toprope, hike?

I think you should go.

jason Wisniewski95 · · Salt Lake City · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

Haha great....... I mean I am going back in the summer for a month so it won't be a complete bummer but it would be nice to get my feet wet first.... The only really annoying part is I'm going to be home the whole time thinking about Yosemite.... Thanks for all the advice guys! I really appreciate it!

Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,025

Jason,

For sure Red Rocks is not for you where there is a ton of crimpers.

You might be able to paddle( stinkbug) up some slabs in Yosemite but what happens if you reach a spot where only a committing crimp will do? Course there are hand cracks and off-width.

I'd listen to Sam.

Fall is really nice in the Valley..all the testosterone is sated. it's more mellow and less bugs. If you heal before there are still many choices for climbing trips.

jason Wisniewski95 · · Salt Lake City · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

Well my finger is a little sore from the light climbing yesterday but doesn't really seem to hurt more. So I think the smart thing to do would be to cancel the trip and rest.... Thanks for everyone weighing in!

Sam Lightner, Jr. · · Lander, WY · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,732

Cancel and rest.
When I was your age, 19 I believe, I high stepped on a route on a could day without warming up. Slightly tore my hamstring at the pelvic insertion. I kept climbing cus it didn't hurt much.
Now it hurts every day and have far less flexibility on that side than I do on the other.
Four weeks seems like an eternity, but its not. Rest.

See you at the crag.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Injuries and Accidents
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