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Edelrid Microjul

Original Post
enkoopa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0

Just got a Microjul. I figured I would start a new thread for this as it's a different beast then the megajul, and likely has a much more specific use - if you're using this device, I doubt you are gym climbing or sport cragging.

All of these are comments paired with a Mammut Serenity 8.7. My goal was a device to use with these ropes safely - this includes on 1 rope, as the Serenity are rated as singles as well.

While I've YET to use it outdoors - still a few months until then - I wanted to get this info out there, as I really had a hard time finding feedback on the Microjul. The biner selection was surprising. I will update once I get back from a trip to Colorado and put it through it's paces.

Belaying is no problem. You don't need the thumbloop at all. You can push and pull slack just like a regular ATC.. The auto-lock is phenomenal. It would definitely make catching a big fall on skinnies much nicer.

Seconding - it feeds quite a bit easier then the Reversino. I would say the reversino is even borderline too much friction - with a ceiling anchor for testing it was manageable, but if you had any other non-optimal anchor in real life, you'd probably get more pumped then you wanted just belaying the second. Lowering a second with the Microjul would be much simpler, if it had to be done. (Both lock off the second no problem.)

Rapelling - it's great, and you can always switch back to a normal rap with a prussik. In blocking mode, using the thumbloop is probably annoying, but using a biner would be fine. The only caveat might be how hot it the biner "handle" gets? I think it's also possible to push on just the wire to get just enough force to lower.

Interestingly enough, here is the result I had rapping with various biners (complete hanging rap)

Edelrid HMS Strike (RECOMMENDED BY EDELRID!) - does NOT lock off rapping. Some slippage just hanging in the air. I personally would not trust it rapping (vs prussik&non-blocking mode), I would just use a prussik most likely.
BD Rocklock - comparable to HMS Strike. Would not trust as above.
Petzl HERA - almost a full lock. I would probably trust it rapping.
Simond Spider HMS - fully locks. Bomber.

So not only does Edelrid have a shyte recommendation for the biner, it actually performs worse then others.

I think for Multipitch, it's king - it will excel at holding a fall, especially bigger ones... Rapping - time will tell, but I think it will be a great option to have, especially on a non-overhanging rap.

mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,885

You're on the extreme thickness edge of the MicroJul Specs. (And regardless of what those specs say, the device was created specifically for 6.9mm twins so I'd argue, as others have before, that those "specs" are a pipe dream for the thicker ropes) These devices require the biner bar to enter into the slot in order for "lock up" to occur. Thicker ropes will make this "slotting" harder to achieve which is likely what you're experiencing.

My new 8.5s seem too large for the micro and will likely get used with the Mega until further testing can be done.

I consider the Micro a specialty piece for low 8mm and below ropes.

FWIW, I;ve found the slider and larger (9.5mm) ropes to work just fine in my MegaJul

As more of the assisted "slot locker" belay devices come to market more and more people will learn that the biner and rope used play role in effectiveness.

The Click Up and Alpine Up are often pair with a biner specifically for this reason.

enkoopa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0

I would rather be near the maximum rope diameter limit for a device then near the minimum limit.

I'm not sure where Petzl gets off saying the Reverso can handle some absurd range of 7mm-11mm.

The biner fully enters the slot with the 8.7 Serenity. This is not impeding anything. In fact, the Edelrid biner has a skinnier profile, and works worse, then the Simond.

I fully agree ropes will affect how things work - that's why I specified what I'm using it with. YMMW. I have no clue how it will work with skinnier ropes.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

Excel at holding bigger falls?

Is that from experience or a theory? Jim Titt showed some test results on the mega jul that showed it did not perform that well with high forces. Not sure how that applies to the micro. Go easy on the auto lock phrase.

mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,885
Greg D wrote:Excel at holding bigger falls? Is that from experience or a theory? Jim Titt showed some test results on the mega jul that showed it did not perform that well with high forces. Not sure how that applies to the micro. Go easy on the auto lock phrase.
Jim's charts show, IMO, that the assisted devices, due to their design, have "caps" on how much breaking force they can apply vs an XP where you can increase the force by "griping more". So in a higher force fall, the MegaJul will not be able to apply as much breaking force to the system and as such, the fall will take longer to arrest (and result in more rope slip which requires gloves to safely handle)

Regarding biner lock up, I put a Slider and Petzl Attache in the calipers. It's obvious after playing around with them more why you see differences in performance.

The Attache is uniformly round at ~11.80mm
The Slider varies with it's I-Beam from ~11mm to ~12.75mm

That extra 1mm keeps the Edelrid Slider from entering the slot as much and thus, changes the locking force a bit from what I can tell.
Andrew Williams · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 625

I have the MircoJul and have been using it all ice season with Sterling Photon 7.8mm ropes. I have the Edelrid Strike biner that they recommend and it absolutely will lock off 100% when used on autolock mode during rappel. To be honest, I actually it in tuber mode on rappel with an autoblock like a standard atc because it locked off so well. I would suspect mattm is correct in stating that the larger diameter ropes may be the reason for not getting the device to lock up.

As far as the Reverso and ATC Guide being able to handle ropes from 7-11mm, I actually had to use an ATC Guide to belay with them at one point today and it worked just fine. Also had someone rappel on them with the ATC as well and they had no issue.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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