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Home Wall endurance or power ?

Original Post
kennyp · · Vegas · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 75

I had a home wall that was 8' wide 12' long and about 50 degrees overhanging. We had to move and I have some new options available for re-building the wall. I can build it to approximately the same specs but it will be a little bit steeper ~55 degrees (lower ceiling), or I have the option of building it so it is 12'wide and 8' tall at about 20 degrees.

I loosely follow the rock prodigy training schedule, except that I climb both days every weekend, so no 4-5 weeks of just hang boarding for me. There is also no gym here so the power endurance phase doesn't really exist, which is okay because I only boulder in the winter. But come sport climbing season my endurance/power endurance are definitely the weakest link.

So my question is do I go for the 20 degree wall and I can do some ARCing and 4x4s or go for the 55 degree wall? Although I do boulder all winter and like getting better at it, I still view it as practice climbing and ultimately want to be able to climb for days on long endurance climbs (rifle).

sachimcfarland · · Edenbridge, Kent · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0

I would argue that its better to go for a steep board, as mentioned in the Andersons book (and pretty common knowledge in the sports science world) strength (..from bouldering/systems board style moves) translates well into long endurancy routes, whereas endurancy routes won't build finger strength. If I had to go for one, I would take the steep wall. Building your str/power up will make each move on an endurancy climb 'easier'

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

I'd go 20deg.

My line of thinking here is specificity. Do you climb on a lot of 55 degree overhanging crags? Unlikely (but who knows, maybe your area is all cave routes?). I think the movement/core tension/joint angles/etc required on the 20 would be much closer to what you're actually training for..outdoor routes.

Second reason I'd use 20 rather than 50+ is that you could really train power (smaller holds, bigger moves), power endurance, or straight endurance on the 20. On the 55 you're probably going to be limited, the movements will be different, etc.

Tucker Watson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 0

Could you make it adjustable? Best of both worlds.

kennyp · · Vegas · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 75

Thanks for the responses, I should also mention that I have hangboard set up and campus board, so I can get my strength and power from those. I do climb at Hueco a lot in the winter so I can get my steep fix there. Endurance and Power endurance are definitely the week link now so I am inclined to go for the 20. The adjustable configuration is unfortunately not going to work in the space I have.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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