slip knot

does anybody know the strength reduction for a slip knot? i know strength reduction has to do with the sharpness of the curve so my guess would be somewhere around an overhand. i somehow (don't ask) managed to acquire two really short slings around the size of a dogbone and want fix the carabiner on the rope side. my options are, to my knowledge, clove hitch or slip knot. any suggestions?
and yes i know i'm gonna die

eli poss wrote:...want fix the carabiner on the rope side. my options are, to my knowledge, clove hitch or slip knot.

Clip it regularly and use athletic tape to keep 'biner from rotating. Or use some sort of thicker rubber band to keep it. If you wanna use a hitch, slip knot it. If you're honestly worried about the strength of the runner ("don't ask"), don't use it as a 'draw. Short runners are great for clipping gear to while hiking in to a crag.

Eli wrote:and yes i know i'm gonna die

One day. Probably not because of this sling, though.

Edit:

Don't know WTF this thing is called but it would work great:

Or this:

This is probably the cheapest way to sort it out, tho I have no idea where you would actually acquire some:

Marc H wrote: Or this: This is probably the cheapest way to sort it out, tho I have no idea where you would actually acquire some:

Got a pack of 10 O-rings for something like $2 in the plumbing section of Home Depot that work great to fix the rope side biner in dogbones where the internal rubber keepers have ripped.

i've tried the tape thing and i don't really like it. i would buy a rubber thing except that it's not a dogbone its an open sling

Rubber retainer on non dogbone draw is a real bad idea. Do a search on "rubber retainer sling" on MP for more info. If the middle of one of the strands of an open sling clips back into the biner then you can end up with only the rubber retainer holding the biner to the sling. This has killed in the past. Of course this has been debated ad nauseum on MP, be I would consider it a bad idea personally. Just my opinion.

Old Crusty wrote: If the middle of one of the strands of an open sling clips back into the biner then you can end up with only the rubber retainer holding the biner to the sling.

True for a tripled trad draw. Not very likely for the OP's "two really short slings around the size of a dogbone"

6 inch open sling + hair elastic = quickdraw.

eli poss wrote:...my options are, to my knowledge, clove hitch or slip knot. any suggestions? and yes i know i'm gonna die

I carried short slings for a while, but ended up going with a different mix of quickdraws and alpine draws. If you want an additional knot option that doesn't reduce the strength much, this double wrap might work for you. Be advised that the unclipping risk is real, though. String retainers on open slings will increase the potential for a catastrophic accident.

Added loop to avoid 'hidden un-clipping'

i'm more of a mick thomson kind of guy. bummer about joey though...

Use a blown out bike tire tube. Cut it width wise, and you have a few hundred rubber bands per tube.

so i was thinking about this and comparing the clove hitch and slipknot visually. i noticed that, with a slip knot, one strand is knotted while the other strand runs straight (no curves that will share force unequally). to me, this would indicate that the slipknot may keep more strength than the clove hitch, but i have nothing to back it up. does this logic make sense or am i just pulling shit out of my ass?

dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/h…

Also, I would think if you're getting into the forces involved in breaking the sling you're already going to have a bad time. Probably a broken ankle.

There might be a handful of people on here who have a first hand account of slings or biners breaking while climbing, and I doubt they would say it was anything but bad.

Tape is tried and true, and cheap. Or do the rubber band and put a twin gate or a non-screwgate locking carabiner if you're worried about secret unclipping. There are several out there that would be good.

im not really worried about the sling failing, as its very difficult to generate even 10kn on the top piece with a rope. i am just curious as to whether a slipknot will conserve more strength than a clove hitch. i know people usually use tape in this situation but i really just don't like the feel of it.