Yosemite Recommendations

hey all,
My wife and I are headed to Yosemite for the first time in April and definitely don't want to be stuck in a long train waiting to climb one of the classics. Sadly the only day we will be able to climb is on a Saturday. I am looking for something anywhere from 1-5 pitches trad. I am comfortable leading Utah 5.11, but my wife is not. I was hoping for something between 5.7-5.10 grade. My question is: Can you think of a great route that would suit these needs that would give us a good first time Yosemite experience without the Yosemite crowd? I was looking at climbs such as Bishops Terrace, but I fear that route would be overwhelmed with people. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Here is a recent thread about obscure climbs in Yosemite:

mountainproject.com/v/obscu…

Here is a classic 5.8 Yosemite route that is unlikely to have crowds because of the stout 1.5 hour uphill approach:

mountainproject.com/v/brail…

Braille Book is definitely a classic, and it is definitely "less likely" to be crowded, for some definition of "less likely". I have seen lines on Braille Book, though. It's also a touch longer than what the OP specified.

I would suggest planning on Braille Book, getting an early start, and having a few backup choices in mind (Higher Cathedral Spire?).

Yes, Bishop's Terrace is frequently overwhelmed with people.

Super Slacker Highway if it's not too hot

I went last summer and climbed some of after seven near the base of El Capitan. Great climb, pretty popular so can be a line. I am glad I did this route, I showed it to my mom and got her hooked on climbing. First pitch is the hardest, but it gets easier after and has a walking decent, so it creates for a good morning of climbing.

mountainproject.com/v/after…

After seven is a good one, even if it is crowded the belay ledges are mostly massive. Also commitment is a good one... All in all just wake up early and you'll win.

If you get to the routes by 7, even on Saturday, most of the time you won't wait or will wait very little. I would take her up Nutcracker. The Munginella-Selanginella linkup would also be good, and less busy than Nutcracker. I've actually never had to wait for anyone on Jamcrack, but I think that's just luck.

If you want an obscure one, Loggerhead Ledge is good. Be prepared for the first pitch being dirty though, and bring some webbing to back up the second rap station, as last time I was there it was sketch/scary.

Super slide

Nutcracker? After Six and After Seven? Everything else on Manure Pile Buttress? Anything in the 5 Open Books?
Seriously? These are perhaps the most popular, most crowded climbs in the Valley - perhaps all of California.

You can check out BT, it is right near the road and you'll know if there is a crowd right away and go elsewhere if there is a line. It is only one pitch too so it goes quick and there are also a few quality routes nearby.

I love Braille Book. It is one of my favorite 5.8's in the Valley. It is a pretty good hike, but if you get up there a "plan B" might be a little more difficult. Could get on the NE Buttress, but I hope she enjoys wide thrutchy climbing.

After 7, After 6 and Nutcracker are most certainly NOT obscure and will almost certainly have crowds (and also NOT El-Cap base routes as mentioned above).

As mentioned, I have had good luck with many of the classics, even on weekends and holidays. Get up early and I've been on classics like Frenzy and EB of Middle (get on Kor-Beck if there are lines) even on holiday weekends.

If you pick any route not in the Supertopo, you'll probably be good.

the 5 open books area has some fun climbs, i don't think they get the traffic of some other routes. jam crack is fun and has some easily top rope able climbs underneath it, but i think that gets busy. if the valley doesn't look too busy i would go to glacier point apron and climb the grack, it gets a ton of traffic, but there are other fun climbs around there that don't and you might get lucky. crack country and west crack in tuolumne meadows are both awesome!
as much as i hate waiting in line, some times its worth it, classics are classics for a reason!

e burgess wrote:crack country and west crack in tuolumne meadows are both awesome!

Higher cathedral spire would fit your bill. 5 pitches of stellar, unique climbing up to one of the best views in 5 he valley.

It's a good jaunt up the hill but we'll worth it.

Braille book looks fun and looks just like what I was looking for. Some of the other mentioned routes look good as well. As marc801 stated, I am going in April. Is Braille book accessible in April? I didn't think much of toulumne area was accessible that time of year. As for the Length. I don't mind a few more pitches, but my wife is not as experienced with multipitch, so with the teaching aspect of it, more than 5 pitches may be too time consuming. Thanks for the replies.
Actually, now that I look into it more, I think higher cathedral spire would give a more of an overall experience for Yosemite. And some great pics for the stories.

BB in April should be fine. It's not in Tuolumne.

The top of Higher Cathedral Spire is a very cool location. The climbing on Braille Book is better, IMO, and the short hike to the top of Higher Cathedral Rock gives you a spectacular view of El Cap.

If you like to sleep in, try doing After Six or After Seven true to their names, and don't start them until well into the evening ;) Did that this last summer and taught an Aussie to simul mid route! They're super ledgy but still really fun and cover a lot of vertical. Cool walk-off descent is a plus too!

C.S. Concerto on Manure Pile didn't seem to get much of any traffic the last time I was in the Valley and provides a fun, moderate route up a fair bit of rock.

Some good suggestions so far. You're comment about your wife's skill is a little vague though, so I'm not sure what she would be genuinely comfortable on. For example, Bishop's Terrace, though only rated 5.8, is long and has lots of different sizes, so unless you've a solid base climbing different size crack, that could be a bit much. Lots of people flail on that, expecting it to be a walk up because of the 5.8 rating. Is it the Valley after all. Same with Selaginella. Knew a couple that climbed that thinking 'it's only 5.8; we do .11 sport' and had a mini epic that only couples can have.

Although it might be tempting to hike far for a route, I'd focus more on climbing than the approach. Here are some fun routes you might enjoy, provided the crowds aren't a problem:

Jam Crack, 5.9
Nutcracker, 5.8
Harry Daley Route, 5.8
Central Pillar of Frenzy, 5.9
Higher Cathedral Spire, 5.9
Bev's Tower to Wheat Thin, .10c
Outer Limits, .10c (though there are long sections of 2" crack that could feel rough for someone with smaller hands)
You may also try to track down a topo for the Cookie Sheet. Lots of moderate routes put up there recently that look really fun.
The Cascades area has fun, one pitch routes that are good too: Knob Job (.10b), Sherrie's Crack (.10c), and even bolted face routes on big knobs like Trough of Justice (.10b) and Knuckleheads (.10d).

Have fun.

CCChanceR wrote:If you like to sleep in, try doing After Six or After Seven true to their names, and don't start them until well into the evening ;)

Go climb Higher Cathedral Spire.... same hike as BB, much less demanding and a true valley classic. You do not need a huge rack and do the P2 variation ... that pitch still has so many fixed pins its like a sport climb.

have fun, thank you for visiting California.