Multiple core shots on Edelrid Raptor after one sport climbing pitch
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That looks like operator error not a mfg. defect. |
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This video shows exactly how new ropes can get toasted by short working sessions. |
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I've used Edelrid ropes for ages and never had any problems with them. |
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Hello, I too have an Edelrid raptor that is showing unusual wear, I bought the rope 3.23.17 and have used it on 3 separate occasions at Calico Basin on the same sport route. no heavy falls on the rope, nothing funky going on. On the 3rd climb my father noticedsome minor fraying on the sheath , this looked superficial to me and not a problem, but what concerns me is that the core under the sheath feels twisted to me, like a ridge under the sheath that runs in a spiral pattern for about 2-3" I suspect that I may have caused the damage because I have never seen this kind of damage before let alone on a new rope, unless it was abused by user or bad gear. I wasn't taxing the rope at all, light use at most. I haven't used it since, but when I saw this post I thought that my case might be relevant and am hoping that someone will have some thoughts on this, has anyone else seen this before? What might have caused it? I will include pictures.
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The age of the rope doesn't really matter for sheath damage like this. Although thicker ropes (or ropes built to resist sheath abrasion) will do better, toproping tends to put a lot of wear on ropes and it only takes one sharp edge to do something like this. Red Rock tends to have a lot of lower angle climbs, meaning the rope almost certainly was running over something, not to mention the fact that a lot of fixed hardware can be old and worn. Did your friend toprope directly off of the rings, or use her own carabiners? Either way, the manufacturer is the last thing I would blame. |
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In my many years of climbing I have had several ropes get trashed on the first few outings, including the very first when a block dropped right on the rope. None have been because of the mfg. For both cases posted and as others have said the rope undoubtedly went over a sharp or rough edge. One may not think they were doing anything funky but a single bur while a rope is under tension will rip it to shreds. That is all on the rope user. |
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Allen Sanderson wrote: Agreed! This happen to my Sterling Marathon Pro on its first day out. Pretty sure it ran over a rough edge. |
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+1 for Edelrid ropes---I have a set of Apus twin/halves, two Swifts (8.9mm), two Topazs (9.2mm), a couple shorter Ecos (9.8mm), and the Rap Line II, all doing well and handling nicely! Bummer---maybe a notched carabiner snuck into the kit? Damn. Anyway, sounds like Mortiz/Edelrid looked into it and REI took care of you---good! |
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Ronnie Lucas wrote: Luckily that tear was about 15 feet from the end. I used it a couple more times and I'm sure it was safe but it unnerved me, so I cut 15 ft off both ends because it was a bi-pattern rope. My 60M became a 50M. |
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Those don't look like core shots from here. |
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Ronnie Lucas wrote: Can you see white? If not it isn't a core shot, just keep an eye on it and keep climbing. I also have a boa eco, while it seems to attract dirt/aluminum bits ridiculously fast the sheath has handled abrasion like a tank. |
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I was involved with a similar situation a few years ago with an Edelweiss which after 3 whole routes looked a lot worse than this rope. I went back and inspected the top hardware to check for burrs, etc., and there were none. The routes were overhanging so no edges to run over. It was for sure a defective rope. Unfortunately for my friend Dan the manufacturer failed to stand behind their product. So, these situations have happened at least one other time. |
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Tzilla Rapdrilla wrote: If I recall correctly, a few years ago there was a defective batch of sheath yarns that got used by edelweiss and maybe other manufacturers and caused coreshots upon a single use that wouldn't have happened otherwise. I think it was just the red yarn, but it might have included other colors. |
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It was a red rope in the case of the Edelweiss. The mfr should have refunded the purchaser's money. |