Mountain Project Logo

Rock fall results in chopped anchor!

Original Post
cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654

On Thursday 2/14 the unseasonably warm weather found us out for a stroll on The Thumb, LCC.

What remained.

mountainproject.com/v/the-s…
We had climbed the first two pitches as described here on MP and were starting the 3rd pitch via the Indecent Exposure variation heading for the S-direct.
mountainproject.com/v/indec…
There were two of us at the belay each clove hitched with our climbing ropes to the pre-equalized anchor into the masterpoint. The belay is in a right facing corner/gully on pretty easy ground. There were numerous places that were comfortable and we were both on fairly long tethers. Me probably 6' and my buddy almost 8'.

The leader had moved through the "double cracks" when a LARGE block fell. (I think the piece in the middle, between the cracks, decided it was time to go). After free falling for about 30' it landed in the gulley about 20' above us and exploded into 3 or so microwave size blocks, a bunch of shrapnel and blasted through us and the belay.

It turns out that I had just gotten up from sitting/leaning in the corner to take a look at a new route and anchor that the leader had spotted that was just above us and opposite the Indecent exposure route. I was standing, feet even with the anchor, when the rock cut loose, broke apart, filled the gulley with projectiles. I tried to jump and dodge (Matrix style) the barrage of granite.

I was less than successful, got blasted full force in the legs below the knees and ended up below the anchor, in the corner, on my back with a block on my chest/stomach. My buddy was actually able to A0 off the anchor up and to the right and avoided getting hit (mostly) but settled heavily back onto the anchor as he pendulumed back into the gulley. At that point we were both fully hanging at the end of our ropes.

Once I decided I wasn't dead I happened to look up and all I could see was the cut leg of the anchor I had built. I told my buddy to unweight the anchor and I tried to levitate to do the same and get a look at what remained. Turns out we were on only one leg as the rock fall chopped the other.

From there we beefed up the anchor, accessed my injuries and those to our ropes. We made a plan to get our leader and gear back and get down. In addition to the anchor, both ropes suffered a total of 4 core shots. I have numerous cuts on both legs and feet and 2 small fractures in my right foot/leg.

I want to share this because although anchor construction and connections are endlessly debated there is no question that having a pre-equalized, redundant anchor, that would not extend, saved my life. Had I used a sling with a magic x which is popular when anchoring to two bolts I would have went for a long unsurvivable, ride. I rarely use or think that the magic x the best tool for most anchoring situations because it can extend if one of the pieces blows. Rarely if ever have I considered what would happen if it got the chop. If I ever use one it the future it will be with 2 slings so that it is redundant.

BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385

Looks like it smashed the hanger almost flat too.

Good to hear you guys survived - scary!

Be redundant and climb safe!

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

Dang dude glad you're ok. That anchor has had that smashed hanger for a number of years from previous rock fall/avalanches in the gully if memory serves correct. Luckily there is another 2 bolt belay about 25ft up and west from you're location during the accident below James Garret's aid climb empty plate.

That gully is no place to be when rock fall happens. You're the second party I've heard of that has gotten pummeled in there. Thanks for the post Carl.

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

Holy Wow, glad you guys are okay. Thanks for you sharing your story.

Trevor · · Cottonwood Heights, UT · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 180

WOW! Did the leader dislodge the block? Was there gear in the crack(s) that may have levered it out? Or just dumb luck? Glad you had a knot in the sling...

Mark R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

This is probably ANAM worthy. Thanks for the write-up.

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654

The hanger was a bit flattened when I got to it. More flattened after this event. I didn't like it but used it anyway. There weren't great optiions near by. Thought about posting that it needed repair or doing it myself, Anyway it needs repair.

It was the anchor for Empty Plate that I got up to look at and that we ended up rapping off.

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911

that had to have been a direct fucking hit, blame it on the goats

Greg Barnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,060

Wow, super lucky!! Good luck healing up quickly!

Totally agree with Mark Ra, please take a few minutes and write it up for ANAM. This is exactly the sort of report that can help people learn to avoid non-redundant systems like the sliding X. The submission form is at:

americanalpineclub.org/p/anam

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Wow you just survived my worst nightmare.

The gods of the stone were merciful.

Joe Forrester · · Palo Alto · Joined Aug 2005 · Points: 2,112

I second what Greg Barnes wrote, please write this up and submit to ANAM.
americanalpineclub.org/p/anam

Jburton · · Ogden · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

We were at the Gate and heard the rockfall. Glad you're ok

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

One note is that while an anchor may be redundant, often with a "standard" tie in the rope running from the belayer to the climber isnt ... Nor are most PASes if yr on rap

You can of course set it up so you are fairly redundant at those points with minimal extra time and gear

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654

^^^^
You are correct connecting oneself to the anchor with the rope offers no redundancy.
However I had no redundancy while I led the entire pitch on that one rope either.

Had I been clipped with and additional sling or PAS, rather than cloved with a long piece of the rope which allowed me to move, I would have taken the full force of the blocks in the chest and head.

The rope is much more durable and was only partially cut not severed. (This damage was in the stack, not on my connection) I have been thinking about this point a lot and I think that when I get back out there I will continue to connect with the rope alone.

The damage!

I also think that 48" nylon runners might not have been completely severed. Unsure but more material is harder to cut. I think that I will continue to use the skinny Dynema runners but will give more thought to the objective hazards that I am dealing with.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711

Wow...glad everyone survived!

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

I wouldn't overthink it.

You're alive because you got damn lucky. Had the rock hit you in the core, this would have been a sad story. And even with two redundant points, the rock you describe may well have taken them out. Hell, it might have even gotten three. Or it might have gotten none, with a slightly different butterfly sneeze.

Take reasonable measures, and avoid as much subjective hazard as you can. An objective hazard like this often comes down to a roll of the dice.

Glad it wasn't your day!

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
cdec wrote:^^^^ You are correct connecting oneself to the anchor with the rope offers no redundancy. However I had no redundancy while I led the entire pitch on that one rope either. Had I been clipped with and additional sling or PAS, rather than cloved with a long piece of the rope which allowed me to move, I would have taken the full force of the blocks in the chest and head. The rope is much more durable and was only partially cut not severed. (This damage was in the stack, not on my connection) I have been thinking about this point a lot and I think that when I get back out there I will continue to connect with the rope alone. I also think that 48" nylon runners might not have been completely severed. Unsure but more material is harder to cut. I think that I will continue to use the skinny Dynema runners but will give more thought to the objective hazards that I am dealing with.
You can clove the rope to the anchor then back to you .... That doubles the strand and makes it redundant (not the hitch or biner though)

Also certain rope anchor setups have redunancy to the belayer built in

Ill do a post sometime about it
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
teece303 wrote:I wouldn't overthink it. You're alive because you got damn lucky.
And, sometimes you make your own luck.

Following best practices can be all you got when the poo hits the fan. In this case, good outcome and the rigging contributed to that. I call that a win and it reinforces best practices.
teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

I don't disagree with you, Brian. I think it's just important to not get carried away: at the end of the day, climbing is dangerous. We shouldn't spend *too* much time on the "what ifs." We should spend just enough time.

Rock fall, especially, has a huge element of dumb luck involved, and there is only so much you can do to mitigate the risk.

(And yeah, there was a whole lotta dumb luck involved here, as well as a good anchor. That's just the way it is sometimes. I think it's important that we don't develop hubris. No matter how bomber your anchors or elite your skills, there are no guarantees.)

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
teece303 wrote:I think it's important that we don't develop hubris. No matter how bomber your anchors or elite your skills, there are no guarantees.)
True...there's some things out of our control to be sure. But, some of us maybe get over anal about accident stuff. Maybe we spend too much time on it...I dunno. It helps me reinforce the things I "should" be doing to stay safe in a sport that can be very unforgiving to mistakes, luck or not.

As the man in the A-Team says, "I love it when a plan comes together."

And, little (or big!) reminders of taking the time to do things well are pretty worth celebrating.

Late last year, climbing through a roof on a route in Turkey, I pulled a fairly big block loose. Prior to climbing, we double checked knots, belay, and, not realized how importantly at the time, position under the route. My belayer was off to the side, not under the route. So, the block missed them. I flipped upside down, helmet on, they caught me, no problemo. No harm, no foul.

What could have happened? My belayer gets hit with the rock, drops me, and we're both injured or worse. Blame the loose rock I didn't see. Yeah, "it" happens. But, the safety system worked.

I guess it just reinforced the safety stuff we can get lax about or blow off too casually.

If you're in the game for the long haul (33 years plus for me), then, it makes sense to me at least to figure out how to stay in the sport. When friends have accidents, I try to incorporate some lesson learned into my situation. If that's pulling on the rope attached to their harness to confirm they're tied in, then, easy to do. Etc.

Anyhoo...cheers and be safe!
Jason Shumaker · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2006 · Points: 649
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Injuries and Accidents
Post a Reply to "Rock fall results in chopped anchor!"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.